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  #11  
Old 02-02-2010, 12:56 AM
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if you're looking for a rack, theres one for sale down here on CL

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/eat/pts/1553763883.html
 
  #12  
Old 02-02-2010, 08:41 AM
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Here are some Series specific forums:
http://www.series2club.info/forum/index.php
http://ollr.10.forumer.com/index.php
Not series specific, but also a good resource:
http://forum.landrovernet.com/forum.php

If you ever decide to go a different direction with the top, let me know. I've been looking for a set of side panels like those.

If you do anything with the glow plugs, take careful note of how they are wired. Some are wired in series and some are wired in parallel and you can't interchange them. If you wire them wrong at best they won't work, and at worst you'll burn them out.
Oil filters you can get locally, if you don't have the PN let me know.

First thing to do is check all the fluids.
Diffs, transfer case, gearbox of course. But the swivel housings use 90w as well (do not use grease in them), steering gearbox (sort of under and forward of the brake MC) and the steering relay on the second cross member (the front bumper is considered the first crossmember).
Hubs also use 90w, though some people put grease in them. But they were designed wet. Their level is maintained from the axle or swivel housing so the only time you need to fill them is if you've had them apart. Early drive members had a little socket head plug you removed to fill them. Later ones have one of the drive member bolt holes drilled through. It's the one that falls exactly midway between two of the wheel studs.

The brakes are manually adjusted. When you're checking the brakes, if you have problems getting the drums off, back off the adjusters. There are some (3 I think) flat head screws on the face of the drum that hold them against the hub. 1-3 of them may be missing, and it's not a big deal. You can use one of the screws to screw in to the threaded hole in the drum to push it off the hub.

Have fun

Originally Posted by NiteTrain
if you're looking for a rack, theres one for sale down here on CL

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/eat/pts/1553763883.html
That looks like a series I used to see over in Snellville.
 

Last edited by antichrist; 02-02-2010 at 08:43 AM.
  #13  
Old 02-02-2010, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Spike555
How did you fall on this find?
I happened to be surfing Craigslist and saw it right after he posted it. I have always wanted a LWB series 2a and the price was awesome so I jumped. Luckily the snowstorm prevented a fellow from Nashville from seeing it so its mine! I kinda figured I would have a few years to learn more about them before jumping in but I think I know enough from reading forums to tell that its in good shape (very little to no rust) and will be worth far more by the time I am done with it. But as you all know I am by no means a mechanic yet so it will take a while before its up to snuff.
greg409- I will def be taking pics of the truck. Its like a new baby in the house! I may even get a camcorder to record its first "steps"
nitetrain- That rack is bad *** but I don't have the cash right now. Def in the future though unless you want to donate it to the cause!
Antichrist- Thanks for all those resources. Some of what you said is over my head but hopefully I will figure it out as I start to read the manuals. The fluids will be first and the PO quoted the old "if it doesn't leak its empty" but he said there were no drips and everything is full so hopefully that is a good sign!
Thanks for all the kind words and your jealousy makes me smile! Now I don't have to read one of these and say "one day..."
 

Last edited by salve7; 02-02-2010 at 01:46 PM.
  #14  
Old 02-02-2010, 04:22 PM
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why are you getting rid of the D1 and not the D2 instead?

nice find on the RHD Diesel. i looked at a series 3 diesel in the Bronx but i thought he wanted too much for it he was asking $4800 and it needed some serious engine work as it had a real nasty shake on it. I talked him down to $3500 and then he backed out and i bought my D2, then that night he called me and asked if i was still interested.... damn it.
 
  #15  
Old 02-02-2010, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by hilltoppersx
why are you getting rid of the D1 and not the D2 instead?

nice find on the RHD Diesel. i looked at a series 3 diesel in the Bronx but i thought he wanted too much for it he was asking $4800 and it needed some serious engine work as it had a real nasty shake on it. I talked him down to $3500 and then he backed out and i bought my D2, then that night he called me and asked if i was still interested.... damn it.
I am getting rid of the D1 because I jsut got it to fix up and sell. My original intention was to keep doing this until I could afford the rover I wanted. But, since I got the rover I have always wanted then that plan is pointless. My D2 is my baby and I have done alot to it. It is my DD and I need something that is reliable, which the D1 is not at this moment. I would like to keep both and then figure out which I want to keep but that would be expensive. Plus, now that my boss knows I own three rovers, he's saying that hes paying me too much!
BTW: here are some more pics http://picasaweb.google.com/coldfrankie/SeriesRover#
 

Last edited by salve7; 02-02-2010 at 04:33 PM.
  #16  
Old 02-02-2010, 07:23 PM
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makes sense. my D2 is my DD although i wish i had a diesel series 3 as my DD so i could save some money on gas and i don't need to go faster than 55 to go to work so the top speed wouldnt affect me.
 
  #17  
Old 02-02-2010, 07:54 PM
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that's it!

after review of your picture link, I've decided to start hiding money from my wife

thanx,greg
 
  #18  
Old 02-02-2010, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by greg409
that's it!

after review of your picture link, I've decided to start hiding money from my wife

thanx,greg
LOL - I was thinking the same thing Greg.


VERY nice find Slave7...
 
  #19  
Old 02-03-2010, 02:24 AM
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Dude, that is one hell of a cool find.
 
  #20  
Old 02-03-2010, 07:42 PM
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You will need to double clutch when you shift.
Diesels are easy, they like to be warm and they dont like short trips.
Check the fuel and fill the oil as Captain Ron says.
Make darn sure you change the fuel filters once a year or every 10,000 miles, whichever is sooner.
And whatever you do do NOT run it out of fuel.
If you do you will be in a world of hurt because there will be air in the fuel lines and you will need to get it out by bleeding them as well as the injector pump.
Not fun.
 


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