i just got my 2001 Discovery back on the road. managed to clear all dash lights and the CEL. my son and i bled the brake lines and installed new brake pads as needed. took it for a road test and for the first time in months there was no flashing CEL (new plugs, wires and intake gasket) and no 3 Amigos (Option B fix). we were elated. the only thing left to do was get the monitors to reset by consistent driving around town and also test the brakes with some hard stops.

Rover ran great! plenty of power (for a 20 year old 4.0) and stopped as the factory intended. i decided to do one more hard braking test.

that's when the hard line to the LHR brake decided to burst through a rusted section and spray fluid all over the rear tire and exhaust. foolishly limped home engine braking and putting it in park at stops.

i've decided to rebuild the brake lines myself and i'm hoping someone has a parts list, hard line size needed, unions needed and list of tools needed.

any tips and pointers would be appreciated also.

 

As the brake pipes are long you may needs two coils of pipe, I used copper pipe 3/16th in, count the number of ends you need add a few to be safe and at least on double ended female joiner for the pipe that goes across the rear from side to side, then buy a brake pipe forming tool, , you may also need to buy the brake pipe clips to hold it in place as when I did mine several broke, then a brake pipe forming end tool similar to the one shown,
so I replace my rear pipes first I clamped the flexi pipe with brake clamps, some people don’t like doing this as they say it can damage the inside, but I have been doing this for 50 years plus so happy with it and never had a flexi pipe go, I worked as an inspector in a testing g station so happy to do it, as the pipe run between the body and this chassis, I straighten out the coil the fed it from the front down slotting it in the plastic clips replacing them if broken until it was passed the rear wheel make sure you have a good amount of free end and it not short, the second pipe that goes to the opposite wheel I had to cut as I could not feed it down and across the chassis then down to the well so that one has the joiner it, once you happy the pipes are OK, you can cut and make the flared end in situ, with the tool shown, I do have a vice mounted on but it was just too big and heavy to do the ends under the car

 

thanks.

and for my own understanding, you used 1/4" copper line; would i be able to tie in to the existing line with this if i was just replacing the rusted out sections?

 

Thats not some thing I would do or recommend, I would recommend you do a full replacement, as then you know it not going to just go again, at a time you need a good hard brake in an emergency

you need to do replace pipe 6, pipe 5 with the joiner a the corner, were thje pipe does a 90deg turn, from the back to the flexi hose at 4 , the front pipe 4 and 3 if required, and 10 is the clips you may need get genuine ones as after market dont hold the pipes

 

Not copper, you must use steel or specific brake line alloy line and make double flares. Otherwise, follow what the other guys have said.

 

I know in the state of Virginia it is not legal to run unions- had one on my land cruiser and when i took it in for other brake work the shop let me know and they put OEM lines in its place, which I was thankful for.
Ill be going down the same road- picking up a disco II tonight and it has a ruptured rear line. Let us know how it turns out