Hard to start when warm
#1
Hard to start when warm
When I run my 96 Disco under load or on long distances and try to start it up after turning it off it is very hard to start. It usually takes numerous tries for it start and when it does it idles rough bouncing from 2,000rpm to 500. Once I run it for a bit it runs normal until I shut off and try to start again.
Any help?
Any help?
#2
RE: Hard to start when warm
I too have witnessed the same experiences regarding starting the car
in both november and december of 2008 the cars electrical system shut down, forcing the car to a immediate stop at night on the motorway in the poring rain. We had to wait 10 minutes before we could re start the car and restart our journey. Thesecond time was the same however we broke down a further 2 times after shutting down.
witness more of my experiences at landroverhell.com
in both november and december of 2008 the cars electrical system shut down, forcing the car to a immediate stop at night on the motorway in the poring rain. We had to wait 10 minutes before we could re start the car and restart our journey. Thesecond time was the same however we broke down a further 2 times after shutting down.
witness more of my experiences at landroverhell.com
#3
RE: Hard to start when warm
Are you returning a code for a crank position sensor fault? The most common symptom of a bad crank position sensor is stalling, failure to start once warm- but starting just fine when cold. The magnet in the tip loses it's contact once warmed up. Often times it's as simple as one of the prongs inside the sensors wire harness no longer making contact, or the wire working it's way loose. Eventually it'll just stall every time after warming up, and won't restart again until it's fully cooled down. This isn't a problem specific to Rovers, but rather the typical symptom for a failing crank position sensor.
It's about a $90 part and extremely easy to replace.
It's about a $90 part and extremely easy to replace.
#4
RE: Hard to start when warm
ORIGINAL: raptorial
When I run my 96 Disco under load or on long distances and try to start it up after turning it off it is very hard to start. It usually takes numerous tries for it start and when it does it idles rough bouncing from 2,000rpm to 500. Once I run it for a bit it runs normal until I shut off and try to start again.
Any help?
When I run my 96 Disco under load or on long distances and try to start it up after turning it off it is very hard to start. It usually takes numerous tries for it start and when it does it idles rough bouncing from 2,000rpm to 500. Once I run it for a bit it runs normal until I shut off and try to start again.
Any help?
#5
RE: Hard to start when warm
The Fuel temp Sensor was my next move. I replaced the coolant temp sensor, but had the same problems. It definitely seems like a fuel problem. Could it be a fuel pressure regulator??
Where is the fuel temp sensor? Lower part of engine on driver's side, green color?
The only code that appears is Engine Coolant Temp Circuit High Input. This only appeared right after I replaced the coolant temp sensor, so I figured it had something to do with that. I reset it and it has not appeared again.
Thanks for the help!
Where is the fuel temp sensor? Lower part of engine on driver's side, green color?
The only code that appears is Engine Coolant Temp Circuit High Input. This only appeared right after I replaced the coolant temp sensor, so I figured it had something to do with that. I reset it and it has not appeared again.
Thanks for the help!
#6
#7
#8
I hate to resurrect an old thread.... This sounds exactly what my '99 SD (Series I) is doing. I was actually thinking the coolant temp sensor.
Reason:
If the computer thinks the engine is cold, it will ask for more gas to keep the RPMs up a bit until the computer thinks it's warm.
What My Rover Is Doing:
I understand that the 4.0 V8 is an aluminum block, but this thing gets WAY hot under the hood. I mean ridiculously hot. Running errands around town is all but impossible once the engine warms up, but the temp gauge on the dash reads perfectly in the middle. I dropped my digital meat thermometer in the coolant tank....176*F. That's within tolerance, easily. But on warm (hot) start-up, sputtering, barley idling.... I have to flutter the gas to keep it running. Then it "catches" and all it right in the world....as long as I don't hit any red lights along the way in the first few minutes.
What I am doing:
Ordering Magnecor 8mm plug wires. I probably need them anyway. I'm also looking around here to see if anyone is having (or had) the same issues so I can take that advice and run with it. So far this is the only thread I've found.
So--- Does anyone think I'm on the right track?
Reason:
If the computer thinks the engine is cold, it will ask for more gas to keep the RPMs up a bit until the computer thinks it's warm.
What My Rover Is Doing:
I understand that the 4.0 V8 is an aluminum block, but this thing gets WAY hot under the hood. I mean ridiculously hot. Running errands around town is all but impossible once the engine warms up, but the temp gauge on the dash reads perfectly in the middle. I dropped my digital meat thermometer in the coolant tank....176*F. That's within tolerance, easily. But on warm (hot) start-up, sputtering, barley idling.... I have to flutter the gas to keep it running. Then it "catches" and all it right in the world....as long as I don't hit any red lights along the way in the first few minutes.
What I am doing:
Ordering Magnecor 8mm plug wires. I probably need them anyway. I'm also looking around here to see if anyone is having (or had) the same issues so I can take that advice and run with it. So far this is the only thread I've found.
So--- Does anyone think I'm on the right track?
#9
You are on the right track, but the coolant temp sensor wont do this, but the fuel temp sensor will.
Its not that these engines run hot, they disipate alot of heat because aluminum is a great heat conductor, thats why radiators are made of aluminum and not steel for example.
Try and rent or better yet buy a OBDII scanner that reads live data and plug it into your OBDII port and you can see the actual operating temp of the engine, should be 200-210*F when running errands on a hot day.
Its not that these engines run hot, they disipate alot of heat because aluminum is a great heat conductor, thats why radiators are made of aluminum and not steel for example.
Try and rent or better yet buy a OBDII scanner that reads live data and plug it into your OBDII port and you can see the actual operating temp of the engine, should be 200-210*F when running errands on a hot day.