System spec is 20 psi per manual and cap markings. Have seen recommended test time vary from "short period of time" to 30 minutes when checking for a psi drop.

FYI, reservoir and cap are both inexpensive items that fail and you should consider changing if not done prior.

Good luck.
......

 

The OBD2 temperature gauge does not seem reliable to me. I will get an inline temperature gauge.

I ran the engine up to normal temperature for about 30 min. I started to see the dash gauge budge a little so turned off the engine. The OBD temp gauge read zero throughout. Maybe I didn't set it up correctly. The manual was unintelligible and I didn't have the patience for it.

The hissing sound seems to be coming from the driver side of the radiator by the lower end. Why is this thing made of plastic? What did they put in their tea when they designed this thing?

My next step is to wait until the engine cools down. Then do another pressure test. This time 20psi for 30 mins. See if I get any leakage. Where does coolant leak inside the radiator?

 

Hmmm, bleeding the system is not that hard. Have you thought maybe the thermostat you purchased is faulty? If it is not opening all the way the hissing sound may be the water boiling (as mentioned). I would put the old therm back in and test it.

 

I put the old Thermostat back in. Everything was working fine. Looking back, I regret looking for work.

I followed steps 9-11 in LR, and step 3 JamieB: 3) Raise expansion tank higher than everything else. Add fluid until no air is burping from bleed screw. Only coolant should flow from bleed screw hole. However, I ran clear water from the garden hose to burp. I've lost over $200 in coolant. Gotta draw the line somewhere. I figured I solve the air problem first then refill later with antifreeze and distilled water.

I drove about 15 minutes and temp gauge started to climb. I pulled over immediately and waited for it to cool. Then, hobbled home. No rise in temp.The hissing sound is still faint. No loss in engine power. No rough running. No leaks.

Now, I think there must be some bits of plastic blocking coolant flow somewhere. Will perform Shane's Step 4: 4. Flush the cooling system. Get those pieces out of there. Also, rent, buy or borrow a motor scope. I have one and it helps me with just about every job. Its a little screen connected to a wand with a camera at the end. The camera can go into every little nook and cranny. I put it inside my radiator to look for blockages, have yet to see any. I put it in my intake to see if there is any foreign material, bolts laying on the valves, I tape it to my extension when I am putting in the bolts for the coil pack, put it down the hoses for the heater core and check the condition..many, many, uses

Would temp still rise if system is 100% water but no air?

Ordered another OBD2 Bluetooth temp gauge. The Heads Up OBD2 came with manual impossible to understand.

 

No. Water is just about the most efficient heat transfer fluid on the planet. It will do a better job than the 50/50 coolant mix.

You might be right about the bits of plastic. Were any missing from the thermostat?

 

There were two bits of plastic that broke off the tee connector lip. The pieces ended up in the thermostat. This is after running the engine several times thinking I still had an air bubble. (I might still have the air bubble). One was the size of my pinky nail. The other was the size of half my pinky nail. I remember some assorted chips no bigger than a grain of rice that I also extracted. I replaced that new thermostat with the old original one that was still working.

If the thermostat was open, where would other chunks end up?

If the thermostat was closed, where would other chunks end up?

Could any large enough pieces get past the thermostat to cause issues? I did fish out the biggest pieces already.

Looking at the tee-connector, I think I got all the biggest pieces. There wasn't a lot of the connector missing.

My next step is a temperature read of the radiator for blockage.

 

I can't believe you are still running this thing until the temperature gauge moves. After all the advice to the contrary. "I shut it down immediately" is simply not an effective way of avoiding damaging temperatures. Maybe you think we are all joking about that?

If you dont have a head gasket issue you should report this to Land Rover as having the most resilient gaskets in history. On a truck that has useless HG's.

I would pull every single piece of the cooling system off the vehicle you can unbolt. Including water pump. Look at it. Inspect it. Replace as necessary. And do all this while you order an Ultra gauge.

But then, I'm starting to sound like a stuck record.

 

Scangauge II = can be bought at any Auto Zone.

I'd replace the radiator 90.00 on ebay all day long, an OEM 180F thermostat, and go from there. Even after the guage moves (hopefully no red light along with it), and you turn it off it will continue to rise for a bit until the engine actually starts to cool. Simply shutting it off will not make it go 229, 200, 170, then 0F.

 

X2 of above. By the way, what makes you believe you are not getting the air out? Do you hear the "waterfall" sound from the heater core?
If you are truly not getting the air out, you likely need a water pump, I would think.

 

No actually I am indeed trying to measure the temp. See my Fri 5/20 post. The tool did not seem reliable to me because it measured 99C or 210F but dash gauge started to climb. That's when I turned off engine immediately. I ordered another measurement tool. Not turning engine on until I have that. I am following the advice of this forum.