Head Bolt torque spec: Disco2
the reason there was no torque value has been explained in detail; and the reason to go back to the drivers side apply the 80fp of torque on the drivers side afterward was explained in detail.
it isn’t rocket science.....
doc
So what is the recommendation for what ReconDoc should do now? I'm especially interested in advice from the pros on here, like The Deputy.
- If we assume the bolts have still not been properly stretched should he remove them and complete the process again using what he learned doing the passenger side?
- Should he remove the bolts and complete the process again using 10 new TTY bolts?
- Should he call it a day and hope for the best with the TTY bolts torqued to 80 lb.ft.?
So what is the recommendation for what ReconDoc should do now? I'm especially interested in advice from the pros on here, like The Deputy.
- If we assume the bolts have still not been properly stretched should he remove them and complete the process again using what he learned doing the passenger side?
- Should he remove the bolts and complete the process again using 10 new TTY bolts?
- Should he call it a day and hope for the best with the TTY bolts torqued to 80 lb.ft.?
logic and common sense tells you that if a torque test on the passenger head equals 80fp of torque on each bolt....that 80fp of torque on the driver side is also proficient; and since both heads have retained the 80fp of torque it is also obvious that the “fix” was an appropriate solution at that point.
IF the RAVE and the mechanics video...or ANYONE on this forum had ever mentioned that using the spiral pattern of 15fp of torque in MULTIPLE passes to ensure none of the bolts had lost their 15fp of torque PRIOR to completing the 90° degree turns, waiting the required 15m, and then applying the second 90° pass....I wouldn’t have made the initial mistake.
also, as a side note...when using studs VS bolts; the torque value on the studs is suggested between 65fp and 80fb of torque.
It seems to me that a three stage torque sequence as others have suggested; and a process that is suggested by numerous other manufacturers when using TTY bolts would be a proper, and more accurate process of obtaining the proper torque value...instead of a “guesstimate” based on an inaccurate rate of angle.
I’ll post another update once I have completed the assembly.
Doc
So....
on the passenger side head I used the EXACT same process....but after putting in all the bolts and snugging them, and then applying the 15fp torque I went back around and again found bolts were not at torque. So I continued the pattern 3 times until all bolts were 15fp torque. Then I applied the first 90°, waited the required 15m, and then applied the second 90°.
the passenger side head completed the process perfectly using that process.
So, to ensure that the driver side head would receive a proper torque value I did the following.
I took the torque wrench and adjusted the torque wrench in a reverse setting value until I found the torque value on the passenger side head bolts. Without adding any torque or turning the bolts I tested and checked each of the bolts on the passenger side; all the bolts tested at 80fp of torque.
So I went back to the driver side head and tested the torque value of the two short head bolts at either end of the interior head. Their torque value was 100fp. I then set the torque wrench at 80fp and using the proper spiral pattern torqued all the remaining driver side head bolts to the 80fp, matching the torque value on the passenger side head.
So...are you saying the two outer/upper short bolts were torqued to 100 foot pounds on the drivers head, and you left them that way, but torqued all of the remaining bolts to 80 foot pounds? This is totally messed up if you did. The head needs to be "ironed out", working from the center and moving each direction in an even torque pattern. If the outer bolts were torqued first and left that way...longevity would be surely compromised. There is no way l'd leave this head in this condition.
Not going to go into the whole torque to yield process again, because you've obviously got your mind set up to use foot pounds as your finally method.
Good luck, and hopefully things work out.
Brian.
Last edited by The Deputy; Apr 22, 2020 at 10:17 AM.
IF the RAVE and the mechanics video...or ANYONE on this forum had ever mentioned that using the spiral pattern of 15fp of torque in MULTIPLE passes to ensure none of the bolts had lost their 15fp of torque PRIOR to completing the 90° degree turns, waiting the required 15m, and then applying the second 90° pass....I wouldn’t have made the initial mistake.
Done here...good luck to you.
First and foremost...there's no need to get foul with other members here, they are just offering advice...and "we" in "no way" know your skill set level. You've said some pretty confusing things along the way (like the, not being able to achieve 15 foot pounds...which, l can't wrap my head around), so we are making a lot of assumptions.
So...are you saying the two outer/upper short bolts were torqued to 100 foot pounds on the drivers head, and you left them that way, but torqued all of the remaining bolts to 80 foot pounds? This is totally messed up if you did. The head needs to be "ironed out", working from the center and moving each direction in an even torque pattern. If the outer bolts were torqued first and left that way...longevity would be surely compromised. There is no way l'd leave this head in this condition.
Not going to go into the whole torque to yield process again, because you've obviously got your mind set up to use foot pounds as your finally method.
Good luck, and hopefully things work out.
Brian.
So...are you saying the two outer/upper short bolts were torqued to 100 foot pounds on the drivers head, and you left them that way, but torqued all of the remaining bolts to 80 foot pounds? This is totally messed up if you did. The head needs to be "ironed out", working from the center and moving each direction in an even torque pattern. If the outer bolts were torqued first and left that way...longevity would be surely compromised. There is no way l'd leave this head in this condition.
Not going to go into the whole torque to yield process again, because you've obviously got your mind set up to use foot pounds as your finally method.
Good luck, and hopefully things work out.
Brian.
there is absolutely nothing “confusing” about my previous posts...well, not unless you are a complete ****ing moron. Are you a complete ****ing moron?
I explicitly described the process I used; I explicitly detailed the facts as I related them in my posts.....
obviously moron is a close descriptive....I have stated NUMEROUS times that ALL the bolts were installed in the proper pattern as described in the RAVE and the Atlantic British mechanics video....you even quoted that statement...and yet the moron within you ignored that statement when making your moronic reply....maybe it isn’t moron, maybe it’s just being a ****ing imbecile.
tell me something genius....how accurate is the 15fp accompanied by the 90°; and then the second 90° when it allows the bolts to be seated at different torque values?
let me speak more slowly so that even a ****ing moron, such as yourself, can follow along:
upon seating the head on the drivers side and snugging all the bolts; I began the process of torquing the bolts....using the spiral circular process described in the mechanics video, along with the specified 15fp of torque. Then using that same spiral pattern I applied the required 90° turn to angle method as described in the RAVE and the mechanics video; I waited the required 15 minutes; and applied the second 90° turn to angle method as described in the RAVE and the mechanics video.....
and guess what moron....there was NO TORQUE VALUE; the bolts could still be turned with a normal wrench without any resistance.
are you still following along?
upon testing the bolts, the ONLY two bolts that had any torque value were the two short bolts at either end of the interior of the head....they had 100fp of torque on them from the process...none of the other bolts had any...
still following along? Need a break? A juice box?
I left the drivers side head alone; I installed the passenger side head....and I followed the required process AGAIN, but this time I made repeated passes, in the required pattern until all of the bolts had, and retained 15fp of torque....I DID NOT STOP at “one pass” as the mechanics video and the RAVE elude to; as they do not tell you that you may need multiple passes...they infer that once snug, one pass completes the process...which is a lie. Then and only then did I apply, in the proper pattern, as I have stated, numerous times, the 90° turn to angle process; and then I again waited the required 15 minutes; and I again applied the 90° turn to angle process.
are you keeping up? You need another break? Maybe come back after lunch? A mid day power nap?
I then took a torque wrench and working backwards from 110fp reversed the torque setting on the wrench, without making any turns on the bolts, tested the passenger side torque value....amazingly, all of the bolts had a nearly identical torque value of 80fp.
shocking isn’t it....you know, math.
I then took the torque wrench back to the driver side head and torqued the bolts, in the required spiral circular pattern, to 80fp.
now please you do take your time; take it all in...and then you come back with some additional long winded, half assed response about how “wrong” it is.
like I give a ****....



