Hey guys - Thanks in advance for answering what may appear to be stupid questions. I promise that I will read and refer to RAVE with most of my questions.

Questions for today - I'm at the point of trying to remove the P/S pump. Do I really need to disconnect the P/S hoses per RAVE or can I just push it to the side like I did the A/C compressor? Do I really need to disconnect the manifold from the exhaust pipe per RAVE or can I just disconnect them from the Cyl Head and let them hang?

 

Just move the P/S pump out of the way.
Have you ever torn down a Rover engine, especially a SAI engine before, how about one with a possible tick or valve train noise? If no, you might want to send me your number and let me walk you thru some extra stuff to do or check as you go.

 

same with the exhaust manifold, use a couple of budgy cord to hold them out of the way

 

Thanks for the tips guys!!!
Mike - No I have not torn into a Rover motor before. I just started the teardown last night. Made it to the P/S Pump and stopped. Planning on a few hours each night until I get the heads off. Mine is a 2001 w/o SAI. It is leaking exhaust from the pass. side. I think I still have your number from a year ago. I'll inbox you my number.

 

These guys are spot on.
get all of the Bolts off of the PS pump.
The nut goes on the shaft.
Just pull the pump all the way off - takes some work.
You need to make sure the PS hoses are not tangled.

Follow the pictures I posted and you'll be fine

Here are the pictures

Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream

 

Okay - I'm down to disconnecting the fuel line and then remove the lower intake. Does anyone know what size quick disconnect to use for the fuel line.

Stupid question for today. Do I send the rocker arms to the machine shop with the heads?

FYI... The plugs on the driver side looked like they was fairly new. The pass. side back two plugs was looking rusty... So I know they was burning coolant, I'm just surprise that it did not have a miss or set the check engine light off. The front two on the pass. side had a reddish tint to them.

I plan on following what RAVE says but can someone tell me why you need to remove the bolts from the intake and the heads in a certain order?

 

Fuel line - you just pull back the ring.
First push the fuel line in - toward the radiator with one hand.
That will take the tension off of it.
Move the ring back ward, then while holding the ring backward, pull the fuel line off.
You may need to hold the ring backward and jiggle the line up and down while pulling back.
When it comes loose, you may slam your hand into the firewall and start to swear.

Put each push rod into a card board box - put holes in the box and put them into the holes in the order they were in.
Put the rockers in the same order.

You simply want to put the rods back in the same place they came out.
And, the rockers in on the same sides and have them aligned as they came out.

You don't send this stuff to the machine shop.
All the machine shop wants are the two heads.

And if you have valve guides from your head gasket kit then give those to them too.

That's about it.

 

Got the intake off - The back four bolts was finger tight. That explains the leak that I couldn't find last year. I decided to remove the pass head first and while the machine shop checks it, take off the other head. The pass side head was the one with the exhaust leak. The front bottom three bolts and the front top four bolts made a load pop when I loosen it. The rest made no noise meaning they was somehow loose?!? I have attached picture of the head gasket.

My advise to anyone that has an intake valley pan leak, you are only 18 bolts from pulling the head... invest the extra time and money and pull them. If I would have found the leak six months ago and replace the pan and now have to go back in the replace the head gasket... I would have been pissed!!!

Question - Bottom back bolt, the space is tight... How are you guys getting a torque angle gauge down there? Do I use lock-tight on the intake bolts when i re-install? There is a little gasket / exhaust resid on the block... How are you guys removing this? Degreaser? Gasket remover? Something better and simpler?

 

Good job man.
That's quite a blowout.
All I had was a hairline crack into my coolant jacket on Cylinder #1.

Take a look at these pictures.

Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream

You can see how I got that lower back bolt out.

5/8" impact socket - 1/2" drive.
On top of that - eitherI had a short extension and the impact socket universal joint
Or the universal on first.
Remember I had a long breaker bar and a black iron gas pipe for leverage to slip over the breaker bar.

use a bit of paint on the bolts to mark them for putting the new headbolts back in.

Yes, when I unloosened mine - there was a little pop on some of them.
Don't worry about that. Some of them gauled into the aluminum.

You be using new head bolts anyway.

 

that would give you an exhaust leak alright