So as I mentioned in a previous post, I had some misfire issues on cylinder number 5. Also, there was a strong tick noise that went along with it. Tore it all apart to find the head gasket blown out along the valley side of the gasket. I put new head gaskets in about 30k miles ago. Is this normal for these engines? How can I tell if it's a slipped liner? I don't want to put it back together to find out I need an engine. The noise I had is identical to the video here. . Here is a pic of the head gasket after I got it out.

 

Were the bolts tight? Sometimes the threads pull out of the block when trying to torque the heads.

 

Also, the escaping compression was probably what made the ticking noise. If you had a slipped liner that was moving up and down enough to make noise, I'm sure you would see some damage to the surface of the head.

 

Damn. I thought those bolts on either side of that cylinder were a little loose. Is there a way to check the threads to be certain? I may end up rebuilding this one depending on the price of my other options

 

Did you go with stretch bolts or studs? That is the problem with stretch bolts is you do not get even torque among all the bolts vs same torque across all. Next time go with ARP Studs. Also run your hand along where the cylinder wall meets the block surface. If you have a slipped sleeve you may be able to feel the sleeve coming out of the block.

 

I agree with thesoundguru studs are really the way to go. There's something unnerving about "stretch" bolts! I don't want my bolts to stretch ever!
There's no sure way to tell if they're stripped except trying to tighten them again. Although, I had this happen on my Honda XR600 and it wasn't too bad. I did a little research and found that it's a common problem. So I went ahead and put inserts in all of them.
I don't know why manufacturers don't think about this stuff when putting an engine together. Those are pretty critical bolts and they not only use stretch bolts, but also thread them into aluminum! The last thing I would want is a steel bolt stretching in soft aluminum. That sounds like a recipe for disaster to me. I guess that's why I'm not an engineer. LOL!

 

I did use stretch bolts. Next time going with the arp studs. Is there a recommended fix for these threads?

 

If you remember which bolts were loose, you could drill those out, tap them and put in a heli-coil or a time-sert
Although, I don't know if you would have a problem if you go with the studs? I guess it depends on the amount of strength left in the threads. I would think that the studs would help because you wouldn't be cranking on a bolt that's pulling, turning and stretching in the threads all at the same time. Instead you'd be tightening a nut on top of the head. Seems like a lot less stress all around.

 

Hang on a second before you get all wrapped up about stripped bolt holes. Who did you get your parts from and what brand? Did you have the head(s) shaved? What tools did you use to index the head bolts with? Did you happen to clean the new head bolts of the rust preventative? What did you use to clean em with? Did you happen to notice ANY aluminum on/in the old bolt threads? How did you index your new head bolts, tool, by eye, surveyors laser? Did you use the Rave to guide the install or?

 

Don't remember where I got them from, it was over a year ago. The heads were shaved. I used a new snap on torque wrench with the built-in torque angle function. Followed the procedure in rave manual. I didn't notice any aluminum coming out on the threads. Did not clean the bolts before install. Just thought it was strange they came loose. I am nervous that I'm going to waste a set of head bolts just to find out the threads don't hold. Any input is greatly appreciated