Head gasket job Questions
Just got off the phone with ARP Technical Support.
1. The Studs do not go through a water jacket so no need for the sealant, just a light coating of oil with a brush, no reason to get crazy.
2. Fine to use a 3/16" Hex Socket to set them, but do not tighten the studs.
3. With Brush put a good coating of Assembly lube on the top of the nut, 3/4 of the top of the stud, and the inside of the nut.
4. Tighten to 30, 60, 80ftlbs.. No reason to retorque.
This info is a bit different than what my research turned up last time. May be a complete reflection of my research abilities, but the directions I found online said 70. So, this time we go to 80.
1. The Studs do not go through a water jacket so no need for the sealant, just a light coating of oil with a brush, no reason to get crazy.
2. Fine to use a 3/16" Hex Socket to set them, but do not tighten the studs.
3. With Brush put a good coating of Assembly lube on the top of the nut, 3/4 of the top of the stud, and the inside of the nut.
4. Tighten to 30, 60, 80ftlbs.. No reason to retorque.
This info is a bit different than what my research turned up last time. May be a complete reflection of my research abilities, but the directions I found online said 70. So, this time we go to 80.
TReK
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,514
Likes: 656
That's basically the same info from the AB vid except they use Loctite instead of oil, and the final torque is slightly higher.
I have used the "AB method/specs" (even before they made the vid) more than a few times with ZERO ISSUES.
>>>> A QUALITY torque wrench is a huge MUST!!!
So I guess it's just do whatever works for you. You'll get it sorted.
GOOD LUCK!
> https://www.roverparts.com/resources...ne-head-studs/
I have used the "AB method/specs" (even before they made the vid) more than a few times with ZERO ISSUES.
>>>> A QUALITY torque wrench is a huge MUST!!!
So I guess it's just do whatever works for you. You'll get it sorted.
GOOD LUCK!
> https://www.roverparts.com/resources...ne-head-studs/
That's basically the same info from the AB vid except they use Loctite instead of oil, and the final torque is slightly higher.
I have used the "AB method/specs" (even before they made the vid) more than a few times with ZERO ISSUES.
>>>> A QUALITY torque wrench is a huge MUST!!!
So I guess it's just do whatever works for you. You'll get it sorted.
GOOD LUCK!
> https://www.roverparts.com/resources...ne-head-studs/
I have used the "AB method/specs" (even before they made the vid) more than a few times with ZERO ISSUES.
>>>> A QUALITY torque wrench is a huge MUST!!!
So I guess it's just do whatever works for you. You'll get it sorted.
GOOD LUCK!
> https://www.roverparts.com/resources...ne-head-studs/
Last edited by CollieRover; Aug 27, 2018 at 08:10 PM.
He tested both my torque wrenches, and the new 3/8” digital was breaking really oddly at 30 50 and 70 ftlbs. The 1/2” non-digital broke consistently and decisively. The 3/8” break was weak and -5 to +5 ftlbs.
It’s possible it was simply the seals, but who knows. I feel much better this time having spoken to ARP tech support. As a shade tree mechanic that resource is invaluable, simply because there are differing opinions online.
He also told told me not to clean the pistons as I would just get carbon into the engine. Oops. I already did the LH side. Going to really turn the engine and get as much out as I can.
It’s possible it was simply the seals, but who knows. I feel much better this time having spoken to ARP tech support. As a shade tree mechanic that resource is invaluable, simply because there are differing opinions online.
He also told told me not to clean the pistons as I would just get carbon into the engine. Oops. I already did the LH side. Going to really turn the engine and get as much out as I can.
TReK
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 3,387
Likes: 488
He tested both my torque wrenches, and the new 3/8” digital was breaking really oddly at 30 50 and 70 ftlbs. The 1/2” non-digital broke consistently and decisively. The 3/8” break was weak and -5 to +5 ftlbs.
It’s possible it was simply the seals, but who knows. I feel much better this time having spoken to ARP tech support. As a shade tree mechanic that resource is invaluable, simply because there are differing opinions online.
He also told told me not to clean the pistons as I would just get carbon into the engine. Oops. I already did the LH side. Going to really turn the engine and get as much out as I can.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 1,238
Likes: 240
From: Alabama + Vegas + Texas
I pulled out my pistons because I wanted to blueprint the rings precisely, so they were easy to clean then (probably pointless, but made me feel better to do it).
What I should have done, but didn't, would have been to dremel the exhaust manifold ports to get better flow from the heads to the cats. That's perhaps the 2nd biggest area of Rover leaving power on the table, behind the cam, of course.
What I should have done, but didn't, would have been to dremel the exhaust manifold ports to get better flow from the heads to the cats. That's perhaps the 2nd biggest area of Rover leaving power on the table, behind the cam, of course.
I pulled out my pistons because I wanted to blueprint the rings precisely, so they were easy to clean then (probably pointless, but made me feel better to do it).
What I should have done, but didn't, would have been to dremel the exhaust manifold ports to get better flow from the heads to the cats. That's perhaps the 2nd biggest area of Rover leaving power on the table, behind the cam, of course.
What I should have done, but didn't, would have been to dremel the exhaust manifold ports to get better flow from the heads to the cats. That's perhaps the 2nd biggest area of Rover leaving power on the table, behind the cam, of course.
Last edited by CollieRover; Aug 29, 2018 at 05:18 AM.