Exactly, so just follow the manual. Why listen so some guys opinion? Marking the bolt heads and turning then 90 degrees isn't exactly rocket science.

 

I second the advice by DiscoMike and the unnamed Rover engineer. From previous work as a technical sales and service manager for a firm making and selling the final assembly tooling systems used to tightener fasteners by the automotive industry - I can say that advice is spot on. I even think Land Rover used our tools - but I didn't work with the UK unit.

Anyway, modern handheld nutrunners (electical) in use on engine assembly lines run multistep programs when tightening the more demanding bolts - light torque level to get to the "snug" level, second stage torque that takes the bolt up in the torque range but not irreversibly stretching it, and then a final angle step that maxes out what the bolt can handle.

Of course, you need both high quality bolts and precision tools with built-in torque transducers and angle control for this process.

For DIY jobs - just make sure all threads are clean, apply regular engine oil to the bolts (don't use anything super slick - that will mess with the torque specs) and just follow the RAVE instructions to a T.

High quality short sockets and an extension pipe is recommended to manage to turn the last 90 degree step - I'm a 6' 200lb guy and I still had to apply myself to get this done.

I've done full top end gasket jobs on both our Disco's - one went around 50K, the other around 60K. On the second engine I managed to slip on one of the bolts during removal - and here's how I addressed that:

With a good quality fresh drill of a reasonably small diameter I drilled a pilot hole in the center of the bad bolt, then drilled a larger, maybe half the inner bolt diameter (so as not to damage the thread) hole about two inches deep. This weakened the remaining part of the bolt so that it stretched enough to be removable with a regular socket.

 

Thanks for the help. Attached is a photo of the reconditioned head I picked up from Road Britannia in Buckhead today. Ill be putting it on tomorrow and Ill be sure to let you know how it goes. Thanks again,

 

[QUOTE=krigsmakten;

For DIY jobs - just make sure all threads are clean, apply regular engine oil to the bolts (don't use anything super slick - that will mess with the torque specs) and [B]just follow the RAVE instructions to a T.[/B]

I have to ask, cause this confuses me; if the RAVE instructions are so fantastic why does every Land Rover on earth have problems with their head gaskets (not a far off exaggeration)? Disco Mike advised me no matter which torque method is used that the most important step is to make sure all bolts are final torqued to the exact same FT/LBS. That is not mention in RAVE, there is no way the long bolt torque will match the short bolt torque by turning 90 DEG and 90 DEG which sounds like a recipe for a warped head; what we are all experiencing backs that up. As I disassembled my motor I checked the break-a-way torque on each head bolt and they were all over the place from 180 FT/LBS (yes I snapped a socket but saved my knuckles) to as low as 45 FT/LBS. I believe Land Rover to be our worst enemy and their engineers have way too much time and budget on their hands (KISS). Please don't everybody come unglued; I am not looking for a fight; it's just.... well.... I have an ******* too.

 

Good point. What about a compromise? Torque the bolts using the rave method -- then give them a final torque to the 78 ft lbsMike was talking about. Why wouldn't that work?

Ps -- I will be torquing the remanufactured heads in about an hour. Wish me luck...

 

Yes, the final torque is the key, I believe we would all agree (poet).

Good luck to you and all.... and me; I'm headed out to do the final torque right now also.

 

You're right, clearly using a torque wrench to tighten the bolts makes much more sense. All I have seen is turn the bolt 90 degrees though. That seemed asinine to me when I did mine, but as far as I know that's all we have. The big question is: what torque values? Personally I think 78 ftlbs is WAY too light.

 

Finally got it all back together, new head gaskets/bolts, heads resurfaced, everything clean as a whistle, torqued evenly/accurately as possible, new coolant pump, thermostat, reservoir cap and brand new radiator. All that time and money and the dang thing is worse than when I started. I have never followed instructions so closely; I doubled and tripled checked every step. I am just sick, I don't know what to do next, I'm defeated. The block must be junk. I'm ready to be committed.

 

Sorry to hear that. How exactly is your truck worse than before? Still losing coolant? Rough idle? Strange noises? I'll help however I can but we need more info.

 

I know I have the system completely full yet there is no cabin heat, the system over pressurizes very quickly shooting coolant out around the reservoir cap
and then overtemps. Before I would at least have cabin heat for awhile before it would overtemp. Seams like there is no coolant flow through the heater core at all, I know for sure I have the system full, 3.5 gallons +. I think there is more than just one problem. The system pressurizes much faster than before. Seams to me it must be compression from one or more cylinders. I hope I am wrong but I'm afraid I am not. It just sucks.

Ps. I'm giving Disco Mike a call later today, he may have a few answers for me; hoping for the best. I really want to save this beast. I'll keep you posted.