According to this article the bolts, coolant jacket and cylinder surface are right next to each other, so yes. http://robisonservice.blogspot.com/2...-failures.html

I tightened the bolts more than I really wanted to using the 90 degree method when I did my gaskets, that's a thin aluminum block afterall. I doubt that exactly 90 degrees is critical anyways, what are the chances that the amount of bolt stretch needed (considering all the different aftermarket bolts) factored in with the type of oil coating on the bolts and the pressure on the block and headgaskets is going to come out to exactly a 90 degree turn? Sounds way to convenient to me. Did you make sure to blow any liquids out of the bolt holes before re-installing? Could be a problem if not. It seems like you should be able to pressure test each cylinder with out pulling it, not sure though.

 

Have you considered your torque method may be the problem? When I did mine I followed rave for the 90+ 90 degree turns -- then set the torque wrench to 75 or 80 lbs and went thru another sequence. The bolts didnt turn at all. At least that way I know I have a minimum torque and met both Rave and Mike rec's. The truck is doing fine.

If it were me -- I'd do another head gasket job and test the block while the heads are off. Follow rave this time and see what happens. That process won't take long and atleast you will know. Peace of mind is worth more than anything...

You're correct about the pressure test being able to be done with the block in, but I believe the head must be removed though so you're back in the same situation. Are you getting any misfires before the truck overheats? Or does it not take that long?

 

I cleaned all the "bolt holes" with aerosol brake cleaner and then compressed air. I am confident in my torque procedure. I will pressure check the block to verify and pinpoint the failure. With the severity of the symptoms I will not be at all surprised to see liquid spraying out of or from behind a sleeve. If the block is repairable I am leaning towards rebuilding the motor I have with all new ductile flanged sleeves from Turner Engineering UK. I still have a lot of research/options to consider but if I can keep the cost down around $2.5K I'll most likely go for it and keep the truck for myself; its my son's but he has lost all faith in it. I am thinking he'll change his mind when he sees what I do with it. Other than the motor all it really needs is an ARB front bumper and it will be awesome. To answer that last question; the system over pressurizes immediately but I did see #4 misfire set on the first test drive after I got it back together. It always had an intermittent #4 misfire so that is most likely where the bad sleeve is. The chances of my head gasket change being messed up in the exact same place is highly unlikely. This was my first head gasket change on a LR but I have done several other makes and never had a problem.

 

Just about the head bolt torque thing as I will be doing a set too soon. The 90 degree thing is just strange to me. It's quite possible the torque values are set quite high do to the little bit of stretch that will come after the first complete heat cycle and then the values will come down a bit. Now I'm an old school ex-performance car mechanic and have probably done a thousand head gaskets from fresh builds and rebuilds and I have always used a progressive torque technique and feel it's the better way to go. I would say having consistent torque values between the bolts is more important than high torque values on some and adequate on others, especially on aluminum. One bolt at a crazy high torque is all it will take to alter the flatness of the head and the sealing surface. Just my 2cents on this.

Your over heating issue sounds pretty severe though, I would suspect a crack somewhere. As many times as you have said this thing ran hot, I would not rule out a sleeve.

Oh, PS. If your son was like my younger brother you may not know how bad it overheated either. My brother drove his car home stopping to let it cool off along the way. By the time he got home the car could barely move under it's own power(the reason he called me). When I get there to look at it, I fire the car up and then within 15 minutes the water temp light comes on. I asked him "does this always happen" and he says "Yeah, it's been doing that for a long time. When it comes on I know I can go about 5 more miles before it cuts off. It happens all of the time now" ..... ugh....

 

I am not employed in the fastener industry, but it seems to me that the only spec we should be concerned with is the one LR requires. If torque values were important -- why wouldn't LR use a torque to yield method instead of torque to angle? Maybe I'm just chicken, but I believe LR probably spent plenty of money figuring out how to torque head bolts.

 

Hi, I started the engine removal procedure this evening. While I was draining the oil(RAVE Step #1) I decided to do as much of the underneath tasks as possible while it was draining. Is it a good idea to change all 4 O2 sensors while the exhaust front pipe is off or a waste of money? I have decided not to keep a picture diary of the project. Another member all ready did and he did an excellent job. I'll find some other ways to help. Thanks.

 

One reason for taking photos of your engine while you dismantle it is that you have an easy reference when it comes to assembly. There were a few times that I had to refer to my photos to figure out where a part went, and then I was still left with one "where the heck does this go?" part.

 

I took a few photos at the beginning and towards the middle of the job and never really needed them. The only thing that gave me a little trouble was figuring how to route the coolant rail and wiring loom so that the plenum would seat correctly (the wires run under by the way).

I did keep all of the bolts and such in marked ziploc bags -- which really helped. And I put a piece of blue painters tape around every connector I disconnected. That way when I couldn't find any more blue tape I knew everything was hooked up.

As long as you remain methodical and follow rave everything will fall into place. Good luck!

 

My son kept a picture diary of the head gasket change we did. Some day I am going to upload those when I have the time to sort and put them in order in an album. So I do have those for reference. When "you" (anyone here) remove LR motors do you remove and is it necessary to remove the exhaust front pipe per the RAVE? I am doing it for better access; but so far it doesn't look necessary; is it best to change the O2 sensors (preventive maintenance) while it is off or is that a waste of $$$ ? Thanks. Heading to the garage now, will check back here when I am done for the night or I get stumped on something. (my wireless signal doesn't reach the garage). cya

 

During my evaluation I have determined LR thermostats are responsible for many Disco II and P38 coolant system over pressurization and over heating. After market thermostats are believed to function as intended. Note: at this time this is only my opinion/theory and is under UK engineering investigation now in progress.

Update; see "D2 inline thermostat mod ?" thread of this forum. This is the fix I am going with.