Ok so I topped off the coolant bottle just now, and bled the system. The thing has not been ran since Sunday night. Upon taking the bottle cap off pressure was released. Is that normal when cold? It's a dryer 88+ degress here in North GA right now.

I checked the dipstick and oil cap, and no milky substance whatsoever. The dipstick had very clean synthetic oil on it. (I changed it a little over 100 miles ago)

I ran it for a little bit, looking things over, and didn't see any leaks from what I could see of the head area or anywhere else. Again the exhaust doesnt have the antifreeze smell and the compartment doesnt have it so much, as crouching down on the driver side.

I was revving it slightly, and noticed the bottle is bubbling inside when the RPM's up, and it seems as if the bubbles are coming from the hose that runs from the bottle over to the coolant flange (I'm thinking this is the return for the coolant from the throttle body. Also when revving it seems as though it is pressurizing the bottle, and pushing small amounts (a drop every 5 seconds) out the overflow hose, which drips to the from running beside the header. I could see how this could create the smell with winds moving through the compartment when driving, and the coolant dripping to the header, but it seems as if the coolant is disappearing awfully quick for this to be the issue.

 

After driving it for a bit, do your fans come on? Also, is the hose above your radiator hard to squeeze(this could be a sign it's vapor locking)
Squeeze this hose after driving, and if you can; get a IR temp reading.

 

I did the bleed thing the other day to get rid of the "hungry stomach" sound as well. Now i'm leaking coolant all over the place from the coolant reservoir. My hoses are not hard to squeeze, actually the opposite.

Interesting note. I remove the bleed valve, removed the reservoir cap, lifted the tank and coolant began to immediately flow. I filled the tank to cold fill line, closed the bleed screw, lowered the tank, replaced the cap, and started up and drove. Thats when I noticed coolant everywhere.

 

Yes the fans come on. It doesn't move the temp gauge, but coolant is going somewhere, and not on the ground.

I guess i will need to take it to a shop to have the dye, pressure or chemical block test done to know for sure if I need to order a gasket kit??

 

Big-Rob, it bet the head gasket.
The pressure in the cool coolant system is a sign,
also says your rings and valves are good on 7 or 8,
and all hose connections are tight.
I never tried myself, but you may be able to feel
the leak by holding the hose while it's running.
You might feel a lil suck and push as the piston
on the bad cylinder does it's thing. But the leak
may not be large enuf to feel, be cool to know tho.

If you DIY the job, park in a shady spot.

 

My Discovery II had a cylinder 1 misfire when I first got it.
I put in Barr's leaks.

No more cylinder #1 misfire.

Yet
Coolant spilling out the bottle.
And, I had pressure out of the coolant bottle after it had been sitting all night.

If I had gone into the store for 1/2 hour and come out and then
loosened the coolant res. cap
It would bubble and bubble as pressure from lower parts of the engine
would start to push coolant out.

The level would raise about an inch or even would spill out coolant.

I would put the cap back on.
Drive somewhere.
The coolant level would then be down where it was, maybe even lower
as I lost some coolant.

All is pointing to a bad head gasket.
Sorry.

After I replaced my head gaskets.

I could raise the bottle and keep it raised.
Ran the engine around 1,500 for 10 minutes or so - watching level carefully.

Level dropped as air bled out the natural way as a Disco I does i.

Then clip the coolant tank back in
Fill to the line or seam.

That's it.
I never have touched it now - never.
In two months.

When your head gaskets are new - that's how it is.
You don't believe it is fixed for a time.
Until it does not act up anymore.

Then belief is earned and you are happy.

 

So i got the D2 back from the shop today, and I received good news..... Maybe

The shop ran a pressure test, and the system held 18psi for over an hour. They then did a solution test, and it tested zero hydrocarbons??

Not to familar with a solution test, but they're saying it's not a head gasket. They ran a camera all around the head while running, and saw no signs of a leak, and both seem to think it has already had a head job, because the gaskets look new and shiny-ish.

All they found was one hose clamp was not tightened on the intake tube, and it showed some signs of leaking at one point with the white streaks that form from leaks

I mentioned to the guy that i had changed the water pump, and flange kit within the past 500 to 600 miles, and he seems to think it's either air bubbles working their way out, OR a pin hole in the radiator somewhere.

I can still smell antifreeze though... scratching my head, and wondering where to look now.

 

Engine is burning it.
Leak is from cylinder #7 or #8 or #1 or #2
coolant passage into the cylinder.
Then, out to the cats.
Where it gets burned.
And, stinks.

In a few month you may be getting codes like
catalyst efficiency is below thresholds.

Then you know the antifreeze was leaking into the cats and ruined them and the O2 sensors.

Been thru this twice on the DI

 

Well that would explain why all O2 sensors are bad, but wouldn't I smell it in the exhaust?

Should I remove the plugs for the cylinders you have listed and see if coolant comes out? And if the engine is burning it and it's not the head gasket doesn't that mean its a cracked cylinder?

And wouldn't it show in a pressure test of coolant was getting into the cylinders?