Head gaskets, now lifters and cams?
 

Morning!
I started a head-gasket job job on the 04 Disco and just came to finding this last night (see pictures).
I’m really puzzled. All the worn lifters (and one appears to be pitted) are on the driver side and what do I do now? The pictures show the worst ones. The cam appears nice, I think the colour difference is just oil staining where the lobes don’t contact the lifters.
Can I just put new lifters on? Do I have to replace the cam? How do I do that with the engine in...
Anyway, this is my first job that involves getting this “intimate” with an engine so you guys with more experience may chime in please. http://www.landroverworld.org/styles...foro/clear.png
I have to admit after discovering this last night I texted my neighbours and they joined me for some pints leaning over the engine compartment.
Thanks in advance for the help!!
David

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...8cd39f417b.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...61813574eb.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...9043fb1273.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...e180ac4cc5.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...d4e1e3438e.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...76562d5829.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...a52517e26c.jpg

That is a surprisingly clean looking cam, but with the lifters being dished I'd worry about the wear pattern on the cam. A little aftermarket cam can be a nice performance bump from the factory one.

There are probably videos online about replacing a cam. Doesn't have to be Land Rover specific. You'll have to remove the radiator and AC condenser to don't in the truck. Front cover, timing chain, and retaining plate will have to come off. Someone remind me if I'm forgetting something.

I'm already planning on doing the front cover and replacing timing chain and gears, oil pump gears and water pump.
I'm not too sure how to replace the cam bearings with the engine in though...
(and would rather not have to do the cam altogether I have to admit)

Cam is easy...cam bearings, not so bad either, cam bearings in the truck, it can be done, but I would not want to have to do it.
It's been done, but the guys that have say it's a big pain in the ass, and I would agree.
I have my engine out of my 04 now, about to start reassembling the block.
I had the machine shop put in new cam bearings when they honed the cylinders. Looking at the block, the first 4 cam bearings should be no problem in the truck.
The last one, at the flywheel end, is the one people say is difficult, and it may be.
There is a freeze plug on the back of the block. Removing that freeze plug makes installing the last cam bearing easier...but of course you can't get to that with the engine in.
I also here good things about the Crower cam from several members. I bought one, so I'll find out soon enough.
Crower claims 20-22 hp and 30-32 lb ft of torque.
Regardless of actual gains, it should be noticeable.
So, you may want to consider it.
Otherwise, if the cam lobes look ok, you have no bearings walked out(remove oil pan and look up at them), then putting new lifters on a worn cam isn't terrible. It will be ok.

Thanks Sixpak, I wonder if one can change the cam without doing the bearings... probably not a good idea, kind of like changing wheel bearings while keeping the races?

Changing the cam itself is very simple, especially if you're already taking the front cover off.
Remove cam gear, 2 phillips head machine screws, and the cam plate they hold. Thread cam gear bolt back into cam shaft, and carefully pull it out, turning it back and forth so not to knick or score the bearings in it.
But, at that point, it would be worth the headache to replace the bearings.
You can use a new cam on old bearings(assuming they are in good shape), and things be ok, but it's not ideal for several reasons, including premature wear of new parts.

This is where I was at too.
But, I finally decided to pull the engine and do it right.
Hone cylinders, new freeze plugs, camshaft, cam, crank and main bearings, rings, refurbished heads.
So, more than I wanted to spend, but hopefully dependable for another 100k miles.
The engine comes out easy, and doesn't weigh alot either.

And, fyi, if you don't already know, you can remove the oil pan with the engine still in.
That way you can check the cam, crank and rod bearings.
Also good to make sure the oil pick up screen is clean.
Replace the o-ring where the tube goes into the front cover too.