Building my 2001 disco II 4.0. Put new cam (stock), new cam bearings, new lifters, new valve springs. All of mine looked fine (and no noise either), but at 156k miles, why try to save $300 when it could bite you later and cost up to $1500 with labor. Not to mention the other damage worn cam bearings can do. Honestly, I do Not want to have to tear into this engine ......again.......ever, lol. The best to you with your Rover.

You need to seek council with a new "specialist". Cam bearing do most certainly see stress, as do any other bearing surface in an engine. It's one oiling system for the entire block. What the cranks sees, the cam sees.

If you have sketch mains and rod bearings, your cam bearings are worn too. Also, bear in mind, the cam bearing clearance is an integral part of making oil pressure on the top end for rockers and push rods.

A stock cam and piece of mind will cost you less that $100 from Lucky 8. Getting the bearings installed is a bit more difficult. You'll need a set already machined for the cam which, Lucky 8 has.


My local O'reilly auto parts store ordered a cam bearing tool for me, then took it back and added it to their rental tool inventory. The#5 bearing is gonna be a bitch to replace with the block in the truck. You'll have to be inventive on a way to push it in, line up the oil hole and not dislodge the rear cam plug.

Just go ahead and snatch the block. Its easier and you'll know its right. Pin the cylinder liners while your at it.

Cam bearings in my 04, 4.6 were done at 122k miles.
Yours may be ok.
Sometimes they "walk" forward or backward out of place in the block too.
I would definately check them.
With the front cover off, it's nothing to take the cam out, at least then you can see the bearings, and know for sure.

well, here is my cam bearing no. 4. The rest are good, especially no. 5. It looks brand new. So can I replace 1, 2, 3, and 4 and leave no. 5 in place?
I'm not equipped to pull the engine... all started with a ''simple head gasket job''...
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...5007895424.jpg

and the other question, do all cam bearing tools work on a DII?
thanks
David

The cam bearing tool that I used had heads that expand like bulbs or balloons. Each was a different size.

They start off small so that you can isnert the tool inside the bearing. Once there, you twist a screw on the end of the tool to tighten, and then you twist the handle of the tool to expand the head/bulb until it is pushing pressure on the cam bearing.

Then you whack the cam bearing tool with a hammer and the bearing pops out.


The same head fit the first 4 bearings for me, but then I had to install a smaller head on the cam tool to pull the #5 cam bearing.


I have no idea if all cam bearing puller tools work the same.

There's *absolutely* no tuning process if you use an aftermarket cam that produces less than 50 extra hp. The D2 engine computer is adept at adapting to the new cam. Automatically. It's brilliant and lovely and the aftermarket cam is one of the few true and easy low-cost ways to improve the D2 motor.