So i figured id share my experience with stripped head bolts last week. After blowing #4 I tore the engine down. In the process i ordered TTY bolts. After finding several bolts "finger tight" i knew i had a thread problem and after much research ordered studs. I ordered both kits the Buick and the "new" longer ARP stud kit for comparison. I read many times there are no differences in length and that is incorrect. I did not take the time for official measurements but its in the 1/4 to 3/16 area and i wanted the extra threads. After much research i ordered time serts. Actually a harley davidson thread repair kit. 7/16 14 1" long insert. Some one had installed a helicoil previously and stripped it out. I special ordered a 1.5" from bel-metric who are awesome by the way. I trimmed maybe an 1/8" off the longer insert to go full depth in the stripped helicoil hole. After it was all said and done i installed the heads and started the torque sequence. Pulled two more studs one at 40 ft lbs and one at 70. Pulled the heads installed inserts and stopped at 60 ft lbs this time. My back ground it 5.0 mustangs and the older ones only needed 65 ft lbs on cast iron heads and block. I think 70 is sketchy and the 100 arp recommends is ludicrous. Any way hope this helps some one down the road.

 

Can you post part #'s?

 

157-4301 correct studs
124-4003 Buick studs
Time-Sert kit 0761E

 

I have used hundreds, literally hundreds, of Helicoil thread replacement inserts in alloy casings and especially magnesium gearbox casings. I believe they are an excellent option when the threads fail and you're stuck. Cleanliness and take your time is the way to go and don't rush the job as you cannot afford to fail.

helicoil,helicoil insert,helicoil inserts,heli-coil,helicoil kit,helicoil tool kit ,helicoil tap,helicoil india

 

Hi guys,
i'm facing the same problem and i was wondering... i was looking at the TIME-SERT kit 12188 (made for Land Rovers)... but it's a little pricey at around 450$.
Like you describe gulfdisco, I could probably piece most of it together with the Harley kit at 125$ plus some longer inserts, which in the LR specific kit appear to be inserts 121888 (7/16-14x1.180).

But i really like the drill bushing and the drill fixture provided in the 12188 kit. Do I really need these or is drilling&tapping the block strait fairly fool-proof? I've tapped holes before but nothing as critical as this. I'm not convinced these 2 parts are worth the extra 300$, but then again my piece of mind might be...

 

Hi Laurent,

I bought my second D1 not long ago and I'm now in the stripped head bolt club . As your post isn't that old I wondered how you sorted your issue. I'm in the hunt for a Time Sert kit, my absolute favorite option would be to find someone who has bit the bullet and bought the 12188 kit (the nice Rover specific one with the jig at 450 us$), but would sell it or rent it to me, cutting his and my lost you know... If I can't find any I'll buy the base kit at 90$ but for the same price I'd rather use a used kit from a fellow Roverist. I'm in eastern Quebec but with globalization shipping from the other end of the world shouldn't be an issue...

 

​​​​​ I I order the Huhn Solutions thread repair kit, comes with a jig and guide. It ran just under 400 and the inserts are comparably size to the big sert inserts with the exception that that have a coarse thread on the outside. they seem to make the most sense, cost a little less and supported a smaller company. If you're interested in renting or purchasing the kit when I finish with it this weekend we could probably

 

How has your repair using the NS300L kit held up? Thinking about going this route in a 5.0 LR4 block.

 

ARP modified their torque specs for the disco.....20ftlbs less than original I think....70 instead of 90?...don;t remember exactly