Headliner day!
#1
Headliner day!
Well today is the day...
Since the day I bought my discovery the sunroofs have leaked so finally I've gotten to removing the headliner
To my surprise the drains are not broken, I'm assuming they're clogged, regardless I needed to fix the headliner.
Any advice or things I should do while I have the headliner out?
The drain tubes seem fine so I think I'm going to keep them but the trays I'm going to epoxy regardless.
The headliner I was planing on bedlining just to make it more rugged.
Also most of my rear ac vents broke what's the best way to replace these, junkyard or new?
Since the day I bought my discovery the sunroofs have leaked so finally I've gotten to removing the headliner
To my surprise the drains are not broken, I'm assuming they're clogged, regardless I needed to fix the headliner.
Any advice or things I should do while I have the headliner out?
The drain tubes seem fine so I think I'm going to keep them but the trays I'm going to epoxy regardless.
The headliner I was planing on bedlining just to make it more rugged.
Also most of my rear ac vents broke what's the best way to replace these, junkyard or new?
#2
We used Duplicolor TR250 > https://www.summitracing.com/parts/shw-tr250 on a friends DI headliner about 3 years ago and was shocked at how well it worked. And we are still friends.
I've used it on metal parts many times with very good results and really didn't know what it would do on the headliner "board".
It turned out to be a win. Sorry, but I don't have a pic and the truck has been sold.
If you use TR250 apply it in even light coats. Also this stuff STINKS until it dries, so follow the use in "well ventilated area" warning. Last, let it fully dry as per the can instructions.
The prep to the board is the same if you were using glue.....GET ALL THE OLD GLUE & FOAM OFF FIRST! Good luck.
I've used it on metal parts many times with very good results and really didn't know what it would do on the headliner "board".
It turned out to be a win. Sorry, but I don't have a pic and the truck has been sold.
If you use TR250 apply it in even light coats. Also this stuff STINKS until it dries, so follow the use in "well ventilated area" warning. Last, let it fully dry as per the can instructions.
The prep to the board is the same if you were using glue.....GET ALL THE OLD GLUE & FOAM OFF FIRST! Good luck.
#3
I just did mine last week after an unsuccessful attempt at recovering it. Home Depot color matched the paint to the sun-visor, and other than the sheen of satin paint, its a perfect match. I used tint-able acrylic enamel. I think the gallon was $26.00
One heavy coat with a roller and then two thinned coats and its done. Other than the wrinkles in the front upper corners that were created from molding the backer board, I think it looks pretty good.
One heavy coat with a roller and then two thinned coats and its done. Other than the wrinkles in the front upper corners that were created from molding the backer board, I think it looks pretty good.
#4
^^^
As I've posted many, many times on this and other forums, the pebbly look of the headliner board is perfect when painted. You do not need to use a bedliner, in my opinion.
In the past I have also posted to use denatured alcohol to clean off the glue residue. It gives a wonderful, clean surface to prime with two coats of Kilz and then paint with a good, acrylic latex exterior paint. Use a 4 inch roller except for the inside corners where you will need a 2 inch brush.
As I've posted many, many times on this and other forums, the pebbly look of the headliner board is perfect when painted. You do not need to use a bedliner, in my opinion.
In the past I have also posted to use denatured alcohol to clean off the glue residue. It gives a wonderful, clean surface to prime with two coats of Kilz and then paint with a good, acrylic latex exterior paint. Use a 4 inch roller except for the inside corners where you will need a 2 inch brush.
#6
We used Duplicolor TR250 > https://www.summitracing.com/parts/shw-tr250 on a friends DI headliner about 3 years ago and was shocked at how well it worked. And we are still friends.
I've used it on metal parts many times with very good results and really didn't know what it would do on the headliner "board".
It turned out to be a win. Sorry, but I don't have a pic and the truck has been sold.
If you use TR250 apply it in even light coats. Also this stuff STINKS until it dries, so follow the use in "well ventilated area" warning. Last, let it fully dry as per the can instructions.
The prep to the board is the same if you were using glue.....GET ALL THE OLD GLUE & FOAM OFF FIRST! Good luck.
I've used it on metal parts many times with very good results and really didn't know what it would do on the headliner "board".
It turned out to be a win. Sorry, but I don't have a pic and the truck has been sold.
If you use TR250 apply it in even light coats. Also this stuff STINKS until it dries, so follow the use in "well ventilated area" warning. Last, let it fully dry as per the can instructions.
The prep to the board is the same if you were using glue.....GET ALL THE OLD GLUE & FOAM OFF FIRST! Good luck.
Ill have to look into that, if anyone else has done this could you post some photos Im going to google it as well to see if I can fine some examples of it finished. Thanks for the tips!
#8
I just did mine last week after an unsuccessful attempt at recovering it. Home Depot color matched the paint to the sun-visor, and other than the sheen of satin paint, its a perfect match. I used tint-able acrylic enamel. I think the gallon was $26.00
One heavy coat with a roller and then two thinned coats and its done. Other than the wrinkles in the front upper corners that were created from molding the backer board, I think it looks pretty good.
One heavy coat with a roller and then two thinned coats and its done. Other than the wrinkles in the front upper corners that were created from molding the backer board, I think it looks pretty good.
Do you have any photos of the final product? Id like to see how it turned out. How is it holding up to wear and tear? Is it easy to scratch or dig into?
#9
^^^
As I've posted many, many times on this and other forums, the pebbly look of the headliner board is perfect when painted. You do not need to use a bedliner, in my opinion.
In the past I have also posted to use denatured alcohol to clean off the glue residue. It gives a wonderful, clean surface to prime with two coats of Kilz and then paint with a good, acrylic latex exterior paint. Use a 4 inch roller except for the inside corners where you will need a 2 inch brush.
As I've posted many, many times on this and other forums, the pebbly look of the headliner board is perfect when painted. You do not need to use a bedliner, in my opinion.
In the past I have also posted to use denatured alcohol to clean off the glue residue. It gives a wonderful, clean surface to prime with two coats of Kilz and then paint with a good, acrylic latex exterior paint. Use a 4 inch roller except for the inside corners where you will need a 2 inch brush.
Im going to look into painting it as opposed to the bedliner. I was concerned about a couple of things
1. The condition of my headliner. Im not sure how long the sun roof has been leaking but the headliner is very weak in spots that were exposed to water. I figured the bedliner would help strengthen it.
2. How well the paint will hold up. I surf so I'm constantly getting boards in and out so would a couple of hits here and there scratch the paint or dent the head liner?
#10
Looks like I'm going to have to re epoxy the cups too I don't think it had enough time to cure before the water got in and just to be safe because I really don't want to have to take the headliner back out again. Its not hard but time consuming and tedious.