This was Alex's idea originally, and a good one!
I put the same stuff on my garage doors and was amazed at the difference in sound, as well as temperature.
I lined my attic roof with a similiar but equal product, and again, couldn't belive the difference.
I've done alot of headliners, but have yet to do the D2.
Have been waiting for warm weather, so the glue adheres correctly.
So far, I've done the back half of the truck's floor, and up to the rear windows.
The difference in sound inside was immediately noticeable, even though I've yet to drive it (have engine out rebuilding it).
Reflectix does what it claims, reflects heat, insulates, and deadens sound.
The ac in my D2 is great, but it's black on black and you can feel the heat inside. Once I'm done, it'll stay cool.
It is well worth doing.
I used aluminum hvac tape in a couple spots on the truck sides, just to hold it in place until the plastic trim went back on.

 

I think I'm already sold. Just like with the preventative drain repair, I'm up for doing anything and everything worth doing while the board is out. I really don't want to ever drop it again.

I'm also planning to run some smurftube from the back to the front, in case I ever want to run a backup/rear-dashcam wire. May never use it, but why not?

 

Hey Sixpack, another question, if you don't mind...

I'm seeing various comments around the net about how in order for the Reflectix to work properly, there must be an air gap between the roof and the material. Which makes sense, considering it's a radiant barrier and if the roof and the Reflectix are directly touching, it'd be physically transferring the heat.

How did you actually do it? Did you just affix it directly to the roof? I'm wondering if I should apply it instead to the top side of the headliner board.

Thoughts?

 

I did it as well. The Home Depot aluminum bubble product does two things:

1. It insulates conductive heat
2. It reduces radiant heat.

I used foil window tape for the small areas, and the air bubble foil for the large areas. I also spray painted the top of the headliner white to reflect more heat. Truck was Black with tan interior, my daughters so I don't have a lot of personal experience with how much cooler it was inside. I recently did my truck - white headliner top inside a gold truck - but it is much cooler than my silver truck with black seats and no mods.

As far as the headliner fabric, I tried it but could not get rid of the wrinkles, local shop did the job much better than I for $100.

Good luck

 

Crap, I was wondering if I should've gone with the bubble wrap style. I've got the standard style coming. So the bubbles actually serve as the air gap, so that you can attach straight to the roof? I imagine it's still not as effective as an actual .75" air gap like they recommend.

I'm also wondering if affixing it to the top of the board would add too much weight to it.

Should I go ahead and get some bubble style and send the standard back when it gets here? Thanks!

As for the headliner, I went back out there tonight with my Gilette razor and was able to shave most of the superficial overspray off the fabric. Then rolled it with a lint roller. Then hit the discolored spots with a Sharpie. It's not flawless, but a huge improvement. :-)

 

I use the bubble style in the truck and on my garage doors.
The flat foil paper kind I used in my attic, which is it's purpose, house lining and wrapping.
Either kind weighs almost nothing, so weight on top of the headliner is no concern.
I lined the rear, interior side panels(behind the storage bins), in direct afternoon sun, 85 degree day, sun in my eyes through the back window while I did it, you could cook on the black roof...and all the reflectix was cool to the touch, and the metal behind it was warm.
It helps, especially a black vehicle, as they really do get hotter in the sun

 

Yeah, i'm planning on doing something like this once i get around to fixing the headliner.