heat takes FOREVER to get hot
#1
02-21-2019, 02:49 PM
heat takes FOREVER to get hot
Really it mostly never does. I mean if it's stop and go traffic it does fine, but i leave the house and drive 45 minutes on the highway, AND drop 2000 feet in elevation at the start of the trip. So I know it's not ideal conditions, but really, it should get warm, right?
I have a new radiator and standard thermostat I installed last year. I keep an eye on the fluid level and it's fine.
Any thoughts as to why it isn't getting hot?
I have a new radiator and standard thermostat I installed last year. I keep an eye on the fluid level and it's fine.
Any thoughts as to why it isn't getting hot?
#2
02-21-2019, 02:52 PM
Pro Wrench
#3
02-21-2019, 03:06 PM
Pro Wrench
#4
02-21-2019, 03:22 PM
How bad is a heater core on these?
#5
02-21-2019, 03:43 PM
#6
02-22-2019, 01:59 AM
Pro Wrench
It's probably not the core.
if you bleed it and bleed it and get nowhere, you can disconnect the hoses to the core and flush it slowly with a garden hose. Idk what your water pressure is like, but usually it's around 40-45 psi. Your heater core is made to hold 15.
being creative you can adapt a garden hose onto the pipe, crack the valve for the garden hose until some water runs out, see what the flow is like. If you get any gunk...then you need to evaluate.
when we used to repair the old style heater cores, we would repair them to hold 40-50 psi. The copper/solder would hold but these new crappy radiators with aluminum plastic is trash. The threshold for failure is much higher.
if you bleed it and bleed it and get nowhere, you can disconnect the hoses to the core and flush it slowly with a garden hose. Idk what your water pressure is like, but usually it's around 40-45 psi. Your heater core is made to hold 15.
being creative you can adapt a garden hose onto the pipe, crack the valve for the garden hose until some water runs out, see what the flow is like. If you get any gunk...then you need to evaluate.
when we used to repair the old style heater cores, we would repair them to hold 40-50 psi. The copper/solder would hold but these new crappy radiators with aluminum plastic is trash. The threshold for failure is much higher.
#8
02-22-2019, 08:42 AM
when i first got my parts truck and was driving it home, the heater barely worked. sometimes there would be a burst of heat but most of the time it was just barely warm.
after i replaced the dead thermostat, the heater worked perfectly. however, i can't say for sure whether the problem was an air bubble or the thermostat not allowing full flow into the heater.
after i replaced the dead thermostat, the heater worked perfectly. however, i can't say for sure whether the problem was an air bubble or the thermostat not allowing full flow into the heater.
#10
02-23-2019, 02:14 PM
I’d like to know the answer as well, my heaters never worked well since I bought the truck. When its sub 40*F outside I can leave the heater on full blast for the duration of a long drive and will never get “hot” inside the cabin. Maybe warm to pretty warm. But never hot. This was a serious issue last time I took the truck out snow camping a few weeks ago, froze my a** off. Ran the heater for a good portion of the night and even my dog was shivering like crazy. And he’s a lab that goes swimming in the rain at 1am in a non-heated pool.