Discovery II Talk about the Land Rover Discovery II within.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Hells Bells all kinda stuff

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 11-12-2010, 11:18 AM
vishrb's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ouray CO
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Hells Bells all kinda stuff

I have several issues that are coming at my at once. And before I get hammered I will admit that I have been too busy to do some of the maintenance I should have done myself so be kind.

I have a 2002 disco 2 with 84k miles. I bought it two years ago with 53k on it. I have done general maintenance. Belts etc..

Issues:

1. Coolant leak previous thread (https://landroverforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33316) As some quick background I was driving and the engine started to over heat. I pulled over as soon as I could get to an off ramp. So yes the engine did get hot. As soon as I was on the off ramp I pulled into the grass and walked to a trucking maintenance facility. They gave me a jug of water and I limped to a safe location. The coolant looked like it had boiled out of the expansion tank. Upon inspection I found a crack in the expansion tank. I decided to replace the tank and the thermostat as those both seemed like reasonable places to start. I have not had the same issue but I continue to have to add coolant. I also see what looked like coolant trail coming down the back of the engine onto the oil pan and frame. It is not enough to make it to the ground. I also have a slight oil leak now. I have called 3 places locally that will work on land rovers. The dealership just stated that I need to bring it in for a diagnostic and inspection. So lets say 100-200 dollars. Then whatever they find. The second place said bring it in for a initial 72 dollar inspection then whatever the find from there. The third place also wanted to look at it but is figuring the motor is bad and will probably need to be replaced. They stated if that is the case they have a 4L there already ready to go for 4200 installed. It includes all new belts, hoses, water pump, and plugs. I have a feeling that the third place may be right. What test should I ask for confirmation? A pressure test? How are the results defined for those? What is a result that indicates a bad motor? I might add that the third place was recommended by two separate land rover owners I have met. Any thoughts would be helpful. Oh and to make sure I explain any other relevant info shortly after buying the car I had to replace the radiator. I am not sure if the coolant needed to be topped of after that because for around 8 months as I was real busy and just had a place do the oil and fluids for me and cannot seem to find the receipts. I will call and see if they have record. So maybe the radiator was bad because the engine had been run hot before I even bought the car???


2. ABS code. I got three amigos after having a local shop put new front rotors and front break pads in. I believe the brake kit used was similar to this one or maybe this one. (http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9542.cfm). My understanding was that these are not top end of course but a decent set of parts that should be ok. I do not hold the shop responsible for this as I asked to use a medium quality set as I was broke at the time. So the day I picked it up from them I got the three amigos. They could not read the ABS codes so I took it to the dealership. They did the diagnostic and stated that I need a new front right speed sensor. Price is 600 dollars. Should I get a second opinion or does this sound likely and reasonable? They said it was just a coincident and had nothing to do with the install or parts. I did here some squealing but they said that was from a glaze that had built up.


3. P4055 gross evap leak. (https://landroverforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21725&page=2) Smoke tested by dealer 3 times and by another shop 1 time. No leak found. Dealer thinks next step is to drop the tank and look for issue there. 200 dollars to drop tank and test. I have already had some good suggestions so I am really only putting this issue in just as a whole picture kind of step.



Looks like I may have 5k or more of repairs. I am proving to be not as good at repairs as I had hoped. I can do the window regulators and did the radiator but these issues seem to be over my head. Obvioulsy bit off more then I can chew. Wife will be pleased to hear it. On one hand the car is not worth much as is. What 2k at best? So you might think I have no choice but to fix these issues. On the other you wonder if I am up to the challenge of owning this car. If I have all repairs completed will I face a new sensor next month? If I can do minor maintenance myself but have to have major repairs done by shop what is the average repairs I might expect a year? Any ideas? I really like the truck but am feeling beat down.

The car body is clean. Interior is in good shape minus the lining of ceiling starting to sag. Has 3rd row. Seems to be in good shape minus issues mentioned above.
 
  #2  
Old 11-12-2010, 03:02 PM
vishrb's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ouray CO
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I should have just posted Another one bites the dust. I think this forum is littered with poor saps like me.
 
  #3  
Old 11-12-2010, 03:25 PM
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 5,763
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

1. you need to have it pressure tested to determine where it is leaking, could be as simple as a hose could be as bad as head gaskets. hopefully you didnt bake the engine when it overheated or there is no point in any of this.

2. you can buy a new hub with a sensor for $400, you can get a used one for $80-$100. you need to stop going to the dealership and throwing your money away and start wrenching for yourself.

3. the leak can be a multitude of things from the canister to the pump to the cap.

even if you need your HG's done and don't do them yourself you can have all your problems solved by an indie mechanic for under $2k not $5k like you are estimating.
 
  #4  
Old 11-12-2010, 10:30 PM
novadisco2's Avatar
Three Wheeling
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: nova scotia
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default bore-scope

A lot of garages (like myself) have A bore scope to deal with ever tightening engine compartments, you can find a local tool rental shop for construction, and rent a bore-scope (plumbers and electricians used them to!), you should be able to get it around the back of the engine to see the leak once the cooling system under pressure. (posibly even trace the dried prestone if you can pressurize it) does it skip at all, does it rev decently when cold? I'd leave the p0455 evap alone till you see about your leak.
 
  #5  
Old 11-13-2010, 08:58 AM
vishrb's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ouray CO
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by novadisco2
A lot of garages (like myself) have A bore scope to deal with ever tightening engine compartments, you can find a local tool rental shop for construction, and rent a bore-scope (plumbers and electricians used them to!), you should be able to get it around the back of the engine to see the leak once the cooling system under pressure. (posibly even trace the dried prestone if you can pressurize it) does it skip at all, does it rev decently when cold? I'd leave the p0455 evap alone till you see about your leak.
It drives fine. I do not notice any issues. We have not gotten real cold yet but upper thirties for a day or two and no issues. Ya the p4055 is deff down the list. I was just laying out my sob story. Kinda like therapy.
 
  #6  
Old 11-13-2010, 09:01 AM
vishrb's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ouray CO
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by hilltoppersx
1. you need to have it pressure tested to determine where it is leaking, could be as simple as a hose could be as bad as head gaskets. hopefully you didnt bake the engine when it overheated or there is no point in any of this.

2. you can buy a new hub with a sensor for $400, you can get a used one for $80-$100. you need to stop going to the dealership and throwing your money away and start wrenching for yourself.

3. the leak can be a multitude of things from the canister to the pump to the cap.

even if you need your HG's done and don't do them yourself you can have all your problems solved by an indie mechanic for under $2k not $5k like you are estimating.
Is it easier to put in the whole hub or just replace the sensor. Or is that because the hub itself may have caused the sensor to go bad?

If the engien it baked then does the 4200 for a rebuilt with plugs, pump, belts, and installed sound pretty good? It did to me. I was thinking more but I am mr nego right now.
 
  #7  
Old 11-13-2010, 10:14 AM
lipadj46's Avatar
TReK
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,106
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by vishrb
If the engien it baked then does the 4200 for a rebuilt with plugs, pump, belts, and installed sound pretty good? It did to me. I was thinking more but I am mr nego right now.
Yeah spending over $4k on a truck barely worth that sounds ingenious, where did that quote com from the dealer? Not trying to be harsh but I doubt your engine is toast you just need to roll up your sleeves and find the coolant leak. Put in a bottle of dye and then start looking.

Does the P4055 come back after you erase it?

On the ABS sensor, buy an ABS amigo and delete the code see if it comes back. If it does see what the code is. If it is a dead sensor get a new one, if it is a bad signal you need to inspect the hub, if it seems sound then then remove the old sensor and clean up the area and if it still comes back replace the hub with a new or used hub.

Unless you have tons of money you need to DIY, if not just sell the truck now.
 
  #8  
Old 11-15-2010, 09:47 AM
vishrb's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ouray CO
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by lipadj46
Yeah spending over $4k on a truck barely worth that sounds ingenious, where did that quote com from the dealer? Not trying to be harsh but I doubt your engine is toast you just need to roll up your sleeves and find the coolant leak. Put in a bottle of dye and then start looking.

Does the P4055 come back after you erase it?

On the ABS sensor, buy an ABS amigo and delete the code see if it comes back. If it does see what the code is. If it is a dead sensor get a new one, if it is a bad signal you need to inspect the hub, if it seems sound then then remove the old sensor and clean up the area and if it still comes back replace the hub with a new or used hub.

Unless you have tons of money you need to DIY, if not just sell the truck now.
Yes the p4055 does come back. It always coem back around 300-500 miles.

You are not being harsh. At the moment I feeling in over my head. So Reality checks are perfectly welcome.

I agree I either need to decide to do the work or sell it as is and learn a lesson.
 
  #9  
Old 11-15-2010, 09:49 AM
vishrb's Avatar
Mudding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ouray CO
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

If you use the ABS Amigo to clear the codes will the ABS brakes work until the code is thrown again?
 
  #10  
Old 11-15-2010, 11:00 AM
agthird's Avatar
Rock Crawling
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 427
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

as long as the amigos are off you have abs..
 


Quick Reply: Hells Bells all kinda stuff



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:44 AM.