Trigger,

Thanks for following up with your outcome to help others. I need to tackle this same issue ASAP.

 

It is not a terribly difficult process but man it seemed technical. I used my multimeter more on this project than any other. Here are the steps I took to shut them off.

1st thing is to order an ABS amigo from rsw solutions.
2nd thing to do once you know its shuttle valve failure is to pull the modulator. Do this, because you might as well rebuild the shuttle valves while you are doing this. I did not remove the little plate covers next to the brake lines on top of the modulator. I didn't need to.
3rd, order the shuttle valve rebuild kit from falconworks. It will be two o rings and 4 jesus clips. When installing the clips, be very careful, an hour of this project was wasted crawling on the shop floor looking for a clip that flew across the shop.
4th, once the mod was out, I removed shuttle valve switches and checked for resistance and continuity. Mine were bad so I ordered one from british atlantic.
I followed repair option B from the sticky after I got the switches and rebuilt modulator valves.
I drained all the brake fluid, installed the modulator, and then bled the brakes using the 2 person pump and hold method. I bled them at the modulator 1st, then each wheel. rr, lr,lf,then right front, until I had good pedal.
I installed front pads and rotors, cleaned the speed sensors and what happened next is in my posts. Good luck, its not a bad fix, but it is time consuming.

 

What instructions are you referring to? Can you provide a link?

 

Tony,
The instructions were very simple, I will tell you exactly how to do it.

First, blow off the area where the sensor is attached to the hub, there was a lot of crud on there when I did mine.

Then remove the allen screw that holds them in place and pull out the sensor. Try and prevent any crud from falling down in the sensor.

I pulled out the o'ring from the hub, and cleaned it, I also cleaned the sensor with brake cleaner.

You then need to take anti-sieze and apply it to the sensor, I brushed a thin layer all over the sensor, I also spread a little anti-sieze in the hole of the hub where the sensor goes.

I then put the o-ring back in the hub and seated it on the ridge with a small screwdriver. You will understand what I am talking about when you do this. After the o'ring is in place, you will need to put the sensor back in, it takes a little pressure and wiggling to get it past the o-ring.

Once you get it in, tighten down to 18 ft/lbs of pressure. I just tightened them down firmly, my ratchet didn't go that low for torque.

Did you buy an ABS Amigo?

Hope that helps.

 

Yes, I bought one a year or so ago and have been clearing codes since then, until I did the ABS repair Option B last week. I should of done it a long time ago, pretty straight forward, just takes a little time.

 

I am going to do he anti seize. Sounds like this is the exact thing happening with my truck.

 

I love a good success story.

Well done.

Rover can turn an owner into a mechanic faster than any other brand out there...

 

I pulled my sensors and by putting some anti sieze on top and grease on the bottom was able to eliminate the front right sensor, but not front left. The ABS is working better, but am still getting the three amigos at 25 or 30. So close!

 

The front left sensor did not react well, so unfortunately I am going to have to have it looked at. So close. The passenger side is working fine.

 

4 years since the fix and it is still working properly. Having the ABS working during the MN winters has been very helpful. Wish you luck on your fix! Glad that this post is still helping people.