spoke to soon...they still leak I guess it was fluke for them to stay up all day and all night. I don't know what brand I used because I cannot find my copy of the receipt for the purchase. I am in the process of contacting the company I bought them from.

@ Nite train where is the "ride height sensors" located if possible could you post a picture so I know what to look for. Tomorrow morning I am going to take the back tires off and spray the bags to make sure its not them leaking.

Thank you

 

I had this issue. Mine was a odd fix I would say. I had where mine would randomly deflate and throw the warning light as I was driving. Sometimes nothing and then other days I could make it a mile.

Take the cover off the SLS pump and look at the valve assy. I had a nut loose on one of the three lines (If I remember the number). I tightened it down and no more problems going on a year now. Good Luck...

 

Last winter, my 2000 Disco II would leak down evenly about 3 times a week, while parked. Then as the weather warmed up, it stopped leaking. Now, as the truck sits all week, it's fine. But leaks down immediately after parking about 1 in 10 times I drive it.

The repair shop said that it tested/appeared to be a faulty release valve on the compressor. But, the valve isn't replacable. So, he installed a new compressor. ($1000.00) I picked it up yesterday and it leaked down again as soon as I got home and parked it. I started the truck up, re-filled it and it was good to go. Last night, I took 5 or 6 short hops to try and recur the problem but it wouldn't. This morning, I drove a mile for the paper and it bled down at the store and again at home. Again, I started up the truck, shut the door and it filled up. Got out and no problem again.

Monday morning, the truck goes back to him again. If anyone can advise me as to things I might tell him to look at, (He's not a Rover specialist) I'd appreciate it.

 

My disco had saggy *** syndrome for a couple of years. Right rear would deflate over night.

I finally got around to swapping out the valve ($100 roverlandparts) next to compressor and that did the trick. Its a 5 minute job. I think at one point I must have stripped the threads on the valve while screwing in the air hose. Valve threads are plastic, hose fitting is brass. Go figure...

 

The SLABS ECU performs tests on the SLS components and knows when things are within a certain spec. The system is extremely accurate and can level the suspension to within +/- .5mm - if there's anything even slightly wrong with a height sensor then it'll throw an error / dash light as it will be unable to calculate the correct height. This will happen the second the system detects a problem, and as I said.. you'd have a dash SLS light (and probably a chime above 30mph or whatever it is).

I will agree with you about certain electrical components being flaky, but it's impossible in this situation due to the fact that the component in question is a range sensor, therefore the computer knows exactly how well it's working. Weird stuff like coils.. yeah, they can have electrical gremlins for sure (I see all kinds of weird stuff building/repairing custom motorcycles!)

Don't deal with this guy anymore.. no offense to him.. but he doesn't sound like the "creative thinker" type of mechanic. More of the "well I plugged this in, the book says to replace it.. it's $1000. How would you like to pay?"-type.

First of all, it can't be the dump valve because one (or both) of the control valves for the left/right air bags has to be open for the air to escape out of the dump valve in the first place. You could literally cut off the dump valve line (if it wasn't internal to the compressor) and nothing would leak... might wanna run that by him.

Second - it's not the end of the world. In your situation (since your compressor is still working) I would splice the line going to the compressor (the middle line - after the control valves) and just wire up your own dump valve, they're like $25. BUT FOR THE RECORD I don't think that's your problem, since multiple valves have to open for air to leak out down there. I think it's an air bag or air line/crush fitting issue.

The dump valve may be internal, but the wires aren't (they're the small 2 wires going into the compressor) I just cut those and hooked them up to a generic 1/8" NPT solenoid. This goes in that "splice" I mentioned, you need to get a "tee" fitting and hook up the solenoid to the extra fitting you get with the tee. Works like a charm and makes a cool "pssssssssst" sound like the 18-wheelers when it releases. (you can hook up a limiting filter fitting if that bugs you). I replaced mine since I stripped the stupid plastic threads for the OEM crush fittings going into the compressor housing. Before that I was using the internal compressor dump valve with an aftermarket compressor also (again, using that "tee" configuration.. opposite of the way yours would be setup, since my compressor died but the dump valve was good haha).

Once your compressor dies one of these days, just unhook that other line on the "tee" (going to the compressor) and hook it up to an aftermarket compressor also.

Most parts in this "insanely expensive system" can actually be replaced for dirt cheap haha.


edit: it's nice to see people noticing leaks more with certain temperatures.. I thought I was crazy. Anyways, they're just rubber people! There can be hairline-type cracks that may seal under minimal loads/pressures/temperatures but open/release under higher loads and pressures. My rover is in the shop right now getting all the dents fixed, and hadn't leaked for 3 days.. I had to climb in the tailgate to open the doors (we took the handles off all the doors haha) and just that pressure caused the entire thing to be sitting on the bump stops within an hour!!!!! You also have the leverage issue since there's a decent rear-overhang behind the axle; standing on the bumper actually exerts a lot of force lol.

edit2: This is an old drawing I made when I was figuring out my initial repairs. When I got the vehicle nothing was hooked up anymore, and the retards that owned it previously had given up and connected the airbags to a tire-style schrader valve on the bumper.. idiots. That was awesome when they decided to deflate.

WAIT THAT'S PROOF THAT I'M RIGHT haha. The truck would sag / leak BEFORE it was connected to ANYTHING. Literally only the air lines and the bags and that valve on the bumper. Okay there's your answer everyone haha.


However here's my picture anyways, since some of you will have component failures (valves/compressors) still. This is an old drawing. Once I stripped the threads, I just took out the compressor entirely and hooked up the other side of the tee to my new solenoid. The little things are "check valves" or one-way fittings (there's one built into the OEM compressor btw.)

 

When you have given up with all the posts, you need to go get the codes read with an appropriate scanner so you know exactly what is wrong.
If you have any questions send me your number and I'll call you.

 

I wound have never paid a thousand for a Compressor. I purchased a good one off of ebay if I remember for about 150.00. Never have used it due to finding the loose fitting on the valve assyembly.

If anyone needs it I have it laying around here in my garage rather sell it to a fellow memeber than have it stored in my garage for another few years.

 

When you check you bags for leaking be sure to take a jack and raise your tire just enough to get the bag to start folding over on itself. This is where I found my leak (right at the curve in the fold) - bought two new bags from Arnott for slightly over $300 delivered and all is well for me and the Landy.

 

The right side air bag is the leaking culprit. It kinda pisses me off because I just bought these bags last august and installed them in oct. I won't by my parts from the same place again.

Does anyone recommend Atlanta British for parts. I am just going to replace the bags again. The original bags lasted for aprox 95k. I am hoping the third set I put on should last as long hopefully...

Thank you to everyone for your comments and suggestions. I appreciate it.

 

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