About a week ago my 2003 Land Rover Discovery II would not start, and the electronics would flicker on and then die almost instantly after I moved the key into position. Not long after, I was unable to enter my Disco at all, and the dashboard had a flashing red light on it, and they key fob would blink red anytime I hit a button. I thought the problem was an EKA code, which I do not have, so I tried several different sequences of numbers in the keyhole hoping one would unlock my Disco. I tried 1515, which supposedly would work- it didn't. I tried the radio code and after about 2 hours of turning it somehow opened, and the lights blinked when I opened the door. Unfortunately, the engine and the electronics would still not start, so I tried the radio code again to see if I could get it to un-immobilize. It didn't work, and even worse, the Disco was now locked again and unresponsive to key movements in the keyhole and the buttons on the keyfob. There isn't even a red light flashing on the dash any more, I only see a red blinking whenever I hit a button on the key fob. I called a Land Rover dealer asking for the EKA code but they did not have anything.

So, the current situation is as follows:
- Land Rover Disco II SE will not open by turning the key in the keyhole or by using the key fob
- Whenever I press the key fob, a light on the key fob itself glows red. The keyhole itself gives no response
- There was a red light flashing on the dash, however, it has now gone. Also, I know the battery isn't dead because I checked it for the brief moment I was allowed inside my vehicle.
- I have no EKA code or master code to try on the keyhole, and the radio code that may have initially opened the vehicle now does nothing
- I have no way of moving my Disco, and I had a mechanic appointment scheduled weeks ahead of time due on the 10th, which I will be unable to attend if I can't move this demon machine

Please help me, anyone, I cannot enter or move my own vehicle and it is driving me crazy. I need access to my garage to change fluids on my other vehicle, but cannot due to the Land Rover being in a vehicular coma.

 

Here is a little info to help you along the way.

Concerning the EKA code.

This function was not enabled on the North American Discovery 2's. The function is there in the BCU but not enabled. I have enabled 4 D2's and all had the function disabled even thought there is a code. All four had different codes than 1515. So unless the dealer or someone had a Nanocom and enabled the EKA function and then changed the code to 1515 yours most likely does not have the EKA code function enabled. So, to save yourself some frustration quit trying to do the 1515 EKA code because it most likely does not exist for your D2.

If the door will not unlock with the physical key it sounds like the lock rod has broken. This connects the outside door lock to the inner door lock inside the door.

I'm not sure why the fob does not work since it is lights up when pressed.

I think your first objective is to get in the car and when you can ensure all the doors are unlocked. Sounded like you were able to get in earlier but now your locked out again.

I don't know any ways to get in.

 

Thanks for the reply, good to know about the eka code. I will continue trying to enter the vehicle.

 

If you MUST get in there are several ways to do so.

#1 break window glass
#2 get a wooden cook utensil and gently bend out the top of the door enough to insert the little inflatable bladder to widen the opening. Then get a rod and try catching the interior door handle if Super Lock is not enabled.

Or repeat whatever you did to originally open it. Whatever you do next time roll a window down when your messing with it to avoid all of this in the first place. Whenever I have to tinker with an imobilized vehicle if I get in I immediately roll a window down to prevent a lock out!

 

We have had several members get locked out due to bad battery. That is the only reason the red light on the dash would not be flashing if the car is locked. You can get under it and connect jumper cables to the starter post to get the battery charged.

Obviously a locksmith can get in the car. You own a LR, you should pay the $99 annual AAA fee and locksmith services come with it. But now you have to wait three days and I assume you do not want to do that.

If a sunroof is cracked, you can use a long rod to push on the dash unlock button. If not, you can try to pry a window frame out enough to get a rod in enough to push the button. Coat hanger will not work, you are going to need a rod like a 6 ft drill bit from home depot (they have them - you can return it after opening the car).

Good luck

 

For several years here on this forum I mistakenly wrote that you could not unlock a DII with the battery dead. I was wrong.

A few months ago someone challenged my assertion, and I tested the locking system on my truck and confirmed I was wrong.

The driver's door lock is mechanical. You should be able to put the key in the door lock and turn it 1/4 turn counteclockwise to unlock the driver's door.

To confirm this I have locked my truck and then disconnected the battery negative lead. I then used the key in the door lock to unlock the truck. No problem.

What happens when you put the key in the driver's door lock and turn it 1/4 turn counterclockwise?

 

lmao break glass

I've known people who've smashed windows I can never understand why most tows do lockout
#3 Call AAA / CAA With the lockout kit

 

Do you feel any resistance when you turn the key in drivers door lock...or is it extremely easy? If it's easy, probably broken door lock pin. Coupled with a dead battery, this is an issue where hooking some jumper cables to the starter positive post and ground to the frame...should give you enough juice to open doors with remote. Or hook a battery charger.

 

I don't have AAA, but I know several people that do. Those same people got locked out or needed assistance ASAP. They were told 3.5-4.0hr wait time, and if you need to get into your vehicle ASAP the small rear window on a D2 is a good one to break. It's an option and honestly I've seen it done plenty of times when the wind blows shut a running vehicle with the keys in it and for some reason you had all the doors locked with the exception of the drivers door which is lets say broken lol, or god forbid if you have a small kid in there and they somehow lock you out. Busting out the glass is without a doubt the quickest way followed by the window frame being gently moved out. A piece of fish tape makes for a decent piece of metal to fish between the door frame and door gasket, then coat the tip with electrical tape or a bent hook to grab the door handle and pull it.

My wife had her LR3 locked out and here is how she did it..... She has a VERY BAD habit of getting out, and either pressing the door lock button on the door manually (while all the other doors are already locked) before she realizes the keys are sitting on the seat, or on the center dash bezel. BOOM Lock out!!!!!!!! I got home one nigh to find the LR3 blocking the driveway. We only had one remote for it, and she told me she was locked out. When we bought it I said we should get a second remote/key for it, and she was like oh heck no not for that much $$$$$.... So her being cheap could have really cost her in the end if it wasn't for me.

Unlike say a RRC/D1/D2 the LR3 door would barely and I mean barely flex at the top. I got a 5-6ft piece of fish tape off an old fish tape I had, then I carefully used a wooden cooking spoon to spread the door frame from the body. I was then able to slide in the piece of fish tape. The angle will play tricks with you, but I figured out if I made a hook I could grab the door handle. After a few attempts bingo I was in!!! I gave my wife a little 411 on her method of getting out of a vehicle stating ummm you are better off locking the vehicle via the remote/key in your hand vs just hitting the lock button on the dash. It never happened again after that lol.

 

This is interesting I'm a new DII owner, that is one thing I noticed everything is very well built. The doors actually clunk when you shut them.

There's always a lot of indie tow companies if you're in an urban area, they're busy burning each others trucks down where I'm from there's so much competition, might be cheaper then a window, but if those lockout tools don't work I suppose I'll have to keep that in my back mind. Thankfully the previous owner gave me a half dozen keys