Also once you get into your D2 I highly recommend replacing the drivers door lock pin with the one from Carrs4x4! It's excellent and beautifully made!

I watched an old LR training video many many many many years ago and they went on and on how they have always made sure that anything after the RRC had the same door sound whenever you shut it. They showed all the research that went into making the door open/close sounds almost identical thru the years. I might loose my sight one day as an old old man, but stand me next to a RRC/D1/D2 heck even a D90/110 and I'll be able to tell you if that's a LR door opening or closing or not lol.

 

I wonder what happened for the OP? I love these threads where we try to help and then get ghosted by the OP.

 

Sorry that I didn't update, I'm just really busy between work and school, and on top of that my phone stopped taking a charge so I didn't get notifications whenever someone commented on my posts. I really appreciate all of the help, and I've since got into the Land Rover and its been doing great. The most difficult part was getting into the vehicle without smashing the window, though I was very tempted to do so. I tried various methods suggested to me by the forum, and I'm not really sure what exactly got the Rover to let me inside. After numerous failed entry attempts, I decided to just pull up chair to the door and start turning the key until the door opened. I did not expect this to work as I'd tried every key-turning combination under the sun to no avail. Somehow, after turning the key in various ways, entering codes that may or may not have done anything to unlock the Rover, there was an audible click of all the door-locks unlocking, and the garage was dimly lit by the yellow haze of the blinkers.

I instantly rushed to check the status of the dashboard light, which changed from a red blink every two or three seconds, to a frantic red flash that was present at all times. I was worried to open the vehicle as I still don't know exactly what the blink speed of the dash light corresponds to, but eventually I decided to enter the Rover to try and start it. The first time I entered, it started almost immediately. I quickly rolled down the driver's side window and turned it off to see if it'd start again. To my dismay, it had entered comatose mode yet again, and it seemed the single startup I had waited forever for was nothing but a cruel joke. Thankfully the rolled-down window allowed me to access the Rover's interior at any time, and after a while I'd thought of just disconnecting the battery, which still retained a healthy charge, and letting it sit for a while to reset the computer. As it turns out, disconnecting the battery disarms the system, and it started up again, again, and again.

A few days later I felt so confident in my land Rover I drove it a whole three miles to a gas station, and to reward this confidence, the Rover went limp-puppy mode on the street-side where I'd parked. Thankfully I'd been keeping the driver's side window down just in case, and was able to pop the hood, disconnect the battery, and then drive home. I've been wondering why it keeps arming the security system, and then it dawned on me that perhaps I shouldn't be disconnecting the positive terminal from the battery every time I "reset" the immobilizer. Since that absolute revelation of an idea, I've been able to get in the Rover at least seven times without an issue, and I even drove it thirty miles to school, left the window up during class, and returned to a Land Rover that had accepted the fact that I was its new owner, and there was nothing it could do to change that.

In true Discovery II fashion, I still have a checklist of problems to sort out, and weird noises that I really don't understand, but I'm considerably more happy with my purchase now that in runs- thanks to some helpful forum people. My main goal right now is to eliminate or minimize the ticking sound coming from the engine, and so I've planned to do an oil change, add sea foam, and marvel mystery oil, I'm just on the fence about which type of oil to use. It's currently on Rotella 15w-40 per reccomendation of the forum, but the temperatures will soon be sub-zero, and I feel like that oil's too thick for the winter, and I've always been a bit wary of using it as its not within the reccomendations of the users manual. Regardless, Ill figure it out.

Thanks for the help and sorry for the late reply

 

Yeah in your climate you should go to 0W-40. Have you noticed what temperature the tick starts at? You might be able to run a 180 thermostat and get rid of the tick. The inline mod 180 runs about 5 degrees cooler than the factory 180, so before you make a change you might want to pay attention to the temp it starts ticking at.

 

There is always a tick no matter the temperature, the tick begins as soon as the engine starts, and the tick rate will increase as I step on the gas and vice versa. Thanks for the oil suggestion, but I have a dumb question to ask you: The manual does not list 0W/40 as a recommended oil, nor does it list 15W/40, which is what I'm currently running. I know most people on the forum also seem to run 15W/40 but I don't really understand why I am using an oil that's not listed in the handbook. Also is there a particular brand of 0W/40 you'd suggest using?

 

If the tick is your liners moving than your engine is going to be toast very soon

as for the oil just read and search the forum for the many answers

 

The oil selection was written 20 years ago by engineers who thought these engines should run at 220 degrees, with a leak prone cooling system, and a coolant that congeals when exposed to air...

Practical experience is why we don't listen to those engineers when we choose what oil to run.

 

Ah, thanks

 

Engine takes primarily comes down to one of three potential causes:

1. Exhaust leak, very common and the first thing you should make sure it's not happening. Typically requires gaskets between the manifold and the pipe.
2. Slip cylinder, second most common and the most difficult to repair. Cylinders can be pinned and there are a couple of write-up of the four of them how to do it.
3. Low oil pressure, most rare cause but not as difficult to fix as the slipped sleeve. Easy to diagnose with the use of an oil pressure gauge.

 

Hmm, figuring this one out will be interesting but I do appreciate you taking the time to point me in the right direction and give me a few areas to look in. I've searched the vehicle for exhaust leaks pretty thoroughly before but haven't done anything to pin the cylinders or check the oil pressure. I think I'll try and find a pressure gauge soon- really hoping its not the liners.