Thanks for the info guys - we're going to give it a go tonight and hopefully put this issue to rest. I'll keep you posted.

 

Guys - I need someone to help me on the bleeding procedure / troubleshooting before I blow my brains out. Followed directions on previous posts....everything seemed pretty good, drove for about 15 minutes and lost heat, temp started to rise, shut of the truck and overflow tank was rising. As a reminder, this is a completely rebuilt motor just installed days ago, new radiator, thermostat, water pump, expansion tank cap, etc. Once we get this thing bled correctly, I'm on the road....but we've tried 5 times with and am running out of answers. Help?

 

is it possible the supply and return lines on the heater core are reversed?

 

I don't think so, but will check. DiscoMike just called and talked to my mechanic...we'll see what happens in the morning!

 

good luck.. Please post the solution when you find one.. as you can see this topic "was" up for debate

 

Well guys, just thought I would follow up on this....after a rebuilt and install, we thought we could not bleed the air out. My mechanic had a guy from Land Rover come out (an aquaintance of his who came out for $100) and he bled it himself and said with 100% certainty that we have a cracked sleeve...AFTER the rebuild. Turns out that he said a machine shop cannot do a pressure test on these motors, as the test has to be performed when the engine is hot, due to the aluminum motor design with steel sleeves. He confirmed, as DiscoMike had mentioned to me, that he's seen many shops attempt to rebuild these motors with the same approach that they take with other motors, but this is a key issue that is not taken into account. Over $3,500 and months later, I'm back to square one. At least the accountability is on the rebuild shop, as it's their fault they took on the job without doing their appropriate research. To be continued.....