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HELP! tie rod

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  #1  
Old 10-14-2023, 02:39 PM
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Default HELP! tie rod


Kroil....heat...cold.....left hand thread.... welded blocks to keep from moving..... I'm all but convinced it's not designed to come off. Any advice
 
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Old 10-14-2023, 05:51 PM
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Just replace the drag link and track rod with a heavy duty set from Rovers North.

https://www.roversnorth.com/parts/rn...eering_rod_set
 
  #3  
Old 10-14-2023, 09:23 PM
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Yes, that's an option.... but does it actually come out?
 
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Old 10-15-2023, 05:53 AM
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yes it comes out, just not worth the hassle
 
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Old 10-15-2023, 10:20 PM
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I think it was factory crimped so it can't come out.
 
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Old 10-15-2023, 10:59 PM
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It should, i was about to replace mine, but price wise getting the terrafirma made more sense. If you live in Seattle are you can have my old pan hard bar and tie rod, if you don't want to go the "upgraded" route.
 
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Old 10-16-2023, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by miron
It should, i was about to replace mine, but price wise getting the terrafirma made more sense. If you live in Seattle are you can have my old pan hard bar and tie rod, if you don't want to go the "upgraded" route.
Thank you for the offer, I'm on the East coast though. I've already ordered one.
BUT... knowing I've ordered one and not being one to be beaten by what is just a special bolt in a pipe I threw caution to the wind. I welded two flat plates to the tube because it kept spinning in the two vises i was simultaneously using to hold it. So with the pipe in the fixtures, liberally soaked in kroil, with an appropriate application of heat,and using an industrial pipe wrench, with a 4' breaker pipe over the handle. I almost ripped the vises from the table using clockwise torque (left hand thread),
It never budged. I've conclusively proven Land Rover didn't intend for it to be removed
 

Last edited by Killerkaw; 10-16-2023 at 08:42 AM.
  #8  
Old 10-16-2023, 10:31 AM
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East coast (salty roads) might be the answer. When I did my 1963 2A it took a lot of heat from a torch to get it to budge (very corroded).
 
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Old 10-16-2023, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Harvlr
East coast (salty roads) might be the answer. When I did my 1963 2A it took a lot of heat from a torch to get it to budge (very corroded).
No salt down here in SC. No evidence of corrosion either, (can't see the threads though)
as far as heat goes, i propaned it to almost red. That didn't work, i figured the heat from welding would have shocked it free (usually works)..... nope
 
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Old 10-16-2023, 06:39 PM
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Wow! That sounds tight!
 


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