HELP: Unexperienced Head Gasket Mechanic
#1
HELP: Unexperienced Head Gasket Mechanic
I am hoping to do the head gasket on my d2 by myself and have never done one before as I am only 16. If anyone has any tips please tell!
What special tools will I need outside of a basic socket set and screwdrivers?
What parts do I need, and do I want the studs or the torque bolts?
What else should I replace of fix while I am doing the head gasket?
Thank You,
Tyler H
2001 D2 “The Rhino”
What special tools will I need outside of a basic socket set and screwdrivers?
What parts do I need, and do I want the studs or the torque bolts?
What else should I replace of fix while I am doing the head gasket?
Thank You,
Tyler H
2001 D2 “The Rhino”
#2
Well a lot more tools to start.
Before you get going how do you know it is head gaskets and what caused the failure, if it was a very high overheat you may have other problems.
As you are new to this go with studs, you can get a good solid torque that way.
You will need:
You will need to have the heads checked and trued, do not do this yourself pay to have it done.
No steel scrapers on the heads, block or any other aluminum parts you do not what any scratches
This is very doable for you, there are no timing chains to worry about. It is a very basic engine.
If you go ahead and you are in doubt ask a question on this board you get an answer and help
Before you get going how do you know it is head gaskets and what caused the failure, if it was a very high overheat you may have other problems.
As you are new to this go with studs, you can get a good solid torque that way.
You will need:
- A good clean place to work
- A budget say 1000.00 on top of parts
- A lot of patience - do not rush anything
- A number of of 12 point sockets
- A GOOD torque wrench
- a bunch of different extensions 1/2 and 3/8 drive
- 1/2 in breaker bar
- Some 1/2 in sockets
- a 2 step step ladder can be helpful
You will need to have the heads checked and trued, do not do this yourself pay to have it done.
No steel scrapers on the heads, block or any other aluminum parts you do not what any scratches
This is very doable for you, there are no timing chains to worry about. It is a very basic engine.
If you go ahead and you are in doubt ask a question on this board you get an answer and help
#3
The engine still runs fine but it does leak a little coolant around the gasket on both sides. I am doing it as a preventative measure since my truck is at 200k miles. I’ve heard that a machine shop can get the heads trued for $150 so I was wondering what the $1000 on top of parts consisted of? It is for the tools? And is there anything else I should do once I have the heads off?
Thank you
Thank you
#4
The extra is for heads if yours can not be trued, used heads may still need to be trued,and other parts you may find have to be replaced. You may not need 1000.00 it but have available.
Next that coolant leak may not be head gaskets, post a few images of where the leaks are, it could be valley gasket, or something else
Next that coolant leak may not be head gaskets, post a few images of where the leaks are, it could be valley gasket, or something else
The following 2 users liked this post by mollusc:
boston4 (08-05-2020),
NewToTheTwo (08-04-2020)
#8
#9
@TyTyBinks by the way do not get discouraged because we are asking a ton of questions, troubleshooting is the most difficult skill to learn. You are way head by wanting to do this yourself.
If you see coolant leaks at the rear of the engine on both sides is is most likely the valley pan gasket, it is rare for both head gaskets to fail at the same time in the same place.
The gasket we are referring to sits between the heads and on top of the push rods,see the picture below no gasket but you can see where it sits. They typically leak at the back (no I do not know why they just do).
Water flows into the heads at very front and very back, if the gasket is not installed right or the bolts get loose you will get coolant leakage there.
And because the engine is angled back a bit it tends to show as a leak out the back.
If you have access to or can rent an inspection camera with a light you can look under there to check
If you see coolant leaks at the rear of the engine on both sides is is most likely the valley pan gasket, it is rare for both head gaskets to fail at the same time in the same place.
The gasket we are referring to sits between the heads and on top of the push rods,see the picture below no gasket but you can see where it sits. They typically leak at the back (no I do not know why they just do).
Water flows into the heads at very front and very back, if the gasket is not installed right or the bolts get loose you will get coolant leakage there.
And because the engine is angled back a bit it tends to show as a leak out the back.
If you have access to or can rent an inspection camera with a light you can look under there to check
#10
My dad has told me that he was told to do head gaskets every 100k miles as a preventative measure. We don’t leak very much coolant if any. I cannot see back to the valley pan. It is not running any codes. It runs great right now. Should I just wait until I start to have problems to do them? Thanks for all the help so far I am still very new to working on cars. I also will get my license on Friday and want to all the work myself since I have to pay for maintenance on it.
The following users liked this post:
Red5 (08-04-2020)