I think there are pics of the shaft very close to the transmission pan somewhere in this thread, but I will post some better ones soon.
I was misinformed (as you were) that it is not possible to put an LT230 behind the 4L60E, but as I can show you it is very possible. Don't believe everything you read on the interweb!


Using the 4L80 introduces some new problems and expenses in the mix, some of which have been hashed over in this thread.

 

I think the weak link will be the shaft between the trans. and the LT230.
Somebody correct me if I have this wrong:
Transmission in first gear, Transfer case in low range, CDL engaged, 32" Duratracs, Rear Auto Locker, up a steep muddy hill should be a pretty good stress test for the whole drivetrain. Nothing broke yet, more testing this weekend... not planning on walking home, so it better stay together.


I don't know what more HP and torque from a Turbo will do to the rest of the drivetrain but a built 4L60E will handle over 600HP in C-5 Corvettes.



I do know this for a fact (my personal experience), the main reason the Discovery is notorious for being speed limited (no more than 80mph with a bunch of vibration and shaking) is without a doubt the LT230 transfer case. Twin Turbos, supercharge it, NOS inject it or add angry squrrels, if you still have the LT230 underneath it, it will still shake above 80MPH.

 

Haha, yea. That's a pretty good strain I'd say.

My plan is a single turbo Rover V8, T5 manual trans (eventually), stick with the lt230, and limited slips front and rear (eventually). Not building for speed, just to be able to pull a trailer better and, well, for fun, so I don't need to go over 80 anyway.

I suppose you don't have HD axles, do you? If not then that's good news for me. I can weld up the spider gears and be good until I can afford limited slips.

Thanks for your help!

 

No HD axles yet, I don't think "I" would replace the stock ones unless they break from stress associated with doing normal offroad stuff that I want to use the truck for.
I bought the "Limited Slip" Ashcroft locker from Lucky 8 for the rear.
It "releases" more often than I expected it to, but every time I hear it ratcheting, I know it's saving stress on the axles. With what little I know about the limited slip, I would still have to say that I don't see how you could break an axle from too much torque. Shock load from a drop off or the wheel in a twisting bind wedged between a couple of big rocks might do it in though.


Sorry, I think this thread is getting off the original topic, but as long as people keep reading.... I guess that's the point.

 

Yep, it appears it is, so I'll leave. Thanks again for your help!

 

If you were going to do this all over again, would you? What would you do different? Would you consider sticking with the ZF transmission?

I did appreciate your price list write up especially because its a pretty good list of everything that must be done.

PS. If anyone else (like me) is considering making this swap, "GM LS-Series Engines: The Complete Swap Manual" by Joseph Potak is on sale for Amazon Kindle edition for $2.99. Looks like a pretty comprehensive reference for 3 bucks.

 

Not to steal anything from Shade Tree as he did a great job of making the switch. I like to read from several sources, have you read this thread; GM Gen 4 conversion including LS - Defender Source

 

Excellent question! I was wondering when someone would ask that. I am surprised that there are not several similar swaps going on now, maybe there is.
Let me answer your questions in reverse order: I would definitely consider keeping the ZF transmission. If you can find the right bell housing and torque converter adapters, this would shift a big part of the work over to making the computers talk and play nice rather than making a TC adapter, cross members and propshafts from scratch.

What would I do different? : See above answer. Leave the TC and Transmission mounted in original location. Work forward from there. If no adapters are available, then graft the LS and ZF bell housings together, modify the ZF torque converter to fit the LS flexplate. Your engine will then be so far forward that you will be forced to use an electric cooling fan (hopefully that will fit). I think 3 amigos and traction control faults (won't work) will still be a problem because the slabs needs an input from the ECM to make things right with the Rover Gods. I am reasonably sure that this method will work, but somebody needs to do it to make sure.

YES, I would do it again with the following guidelines:
1. Center Differential Lock absolutely necessary, because...(see #2)
2. It will be an off-road vehicle (not a DD). Drive it on the road, just not too fast or too far.
3. Initial vehicle investment must be very low. An off-road truck doesn't need to be pristine and have all the bells and whistles working.
4. Plan for a MUCH bigger radiator and electric fans, stocker doesn't cut it off-road.
5. Do your lift first, just makes more sense that way.

I recommend you plan your swap and go for it.

 

Grafting the bellhousings was my original plan, but I am reconsidering that in favor of 6L80 + TC adapter.

Why does what you described shift the motor forward? Is the LS motor longer than the Rover one? Regardless, I think electric fans plus a real radiator are the way to go. Besides its more plumbing if both of the hose connections are not on the same side of the rad.

Wouldn't it be possible to leave the Rover ECM in place to control slabs? I'm planning on doing some hacking to make everything play nice and keep as much functionality as I can.

 

It may not be too far forward, depends on what you wind up with for an adapter. An LS Swap radiator for a Gen. I Camaro works. It should have inlet and outlet both on the passenger (right) side.

YES! You need to try that first. Unfortunately that ship has sailed for me.