Hi. My 2000 DII with 60k miles started having a bad hesitation about 2 months ago. I pulled the codes at that time and found in one of these forums that they indicated a MAF malfunction. I went against better judgement and bought an aftermarket MAF. This worked perfectly for about 2 weeks. Then, suddenly the DII started hesitating and stalling during the 1st 5 minutes of running. After it warms up, it's fine. However, the CEL came back on with the P1175 and P1172 codes. I thought 'Now I know why everyone said no aftermarket MAFs'. So, I borrowed one from a running DII. Same problem with the same codes. It only acts up until the temperature comes up to normal (which is always 1/2 way up). I think that the codes now are O2 sensor codes. I know the O2 sensors can make the fuel economy worse (hard to tell on a car that gets 13MPG now). I have had them go bad on other cars but they never made the engine hesitate and die like this. Any suggestions? Thanks!

 

You need a tune up, that means new spark plugs and wires.
Also cheap gas will cause hard starting and can cause stalling when cold, it is compounded by worn out spark plugs.
Make sure you are using a name brand gas, like Shell for example, and make sure that you always use premium if you were not before.

 

It has never been hard to start... not even once. Even when it stalls, it starts right back up. The plugs and wires were changed not too long ago by the previous owner. I cleaned them last night... they still looked good. However, they are autolite platinum 2. I've never run the P2's before.. but I know I have had problems with the regular autolite platinums in other vehicles. Should I run another plug? Also, we do run middle grade gas in it now and then. When problems does this cause? We had a '96 Discovery before this one and always ran 87 in it. It has 160+k miles and still going strong. Thanks for the suggestions!

 

what wires are in it? most people reccomend 8mm magnecors for the D2's, i use Plat +4 Plugs some people reccomend Iridiums. You need to use premium fuel becuase thats what the manual says to do. The manual says to use premium becuase your engine requires it for proper combustion. Most higher-end engines contain knock sensors that detect detonation and automatically retard the spark to compensate. The delay means maximum gas expansion occurs when the piston is farther along in its downstroke, theres more room in the cylinder head. This reduces peak pressure, eliminating knock (you would normally hear in cheaper engines without knock sensors) but also giving you less power and poorer mileage.

 

Switch to either Champion Double Platinum or Bosch Platinum Plus 4's, then address the wire issue, what brand are they, what octane gas are you burning?
After this, then clear the codes, if they come back, get rid of that MAF and spend the big bucks.

 

Not sure what brand the wires are. I'll have to check. I'll also switch out the plugs and see what happens. I can't see it being the MAF. Like I mentioned, I switch it with an '01 that is running perfect and it's doing the same thing. The '01 with my original MAF is running perfect as well. We will keep running the high octane in it and see what happens. Before we spend the big bucks on a new OEM MAF, we will send it down the road and go back to the '96. I didn't realize that there was such a difference in the dependability in just 4 model years. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

You are costing yourself money buy using regular gas, it will lower your mpg as well as sludge up the engine because regular gas burns hotter than premium and bakes the oil inside the cylinder heads.
Eventually the oil passages will be so plugged with sludge that the engine will starve of oil and grenade itself.

And yes, there is a huge quality difference between the DI and DII.

 

Tell me all the codes, usually when something goes bad while its cold it might have to do with something leaking and then sealing up.

 

The only 2 codes there are now are the P1172 and P1175. Prior to changing the MAF there were many codes. I have them written down somewhere but they included tranny codes. Everything I saw on here indicated the MAF. Like I said, against suggestions on here, I went with the after market MAF. Really didn't have the $$ at the time. Then when these codes showed up, I found someone who would let me 'borrow' their MAF. No change. I reset the codes, drove it for awhile and they came right back along with the hesitation.

 

was the borrowed MAF a LR specific bosch MAF? if you threw the p0734 with the 1172 and 1175 then IT IS your MAF that is shot. Not sure what else is wrong, let us know when you get the other codes.