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Hooking up a USB port.

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  #1  
Old 03-06-2019, 09:49 PM
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Default Hooking up a USB port.

Hey guys, I’m gonna come right out and say it...I suck at electrical. So I am installing a USB / 12v socket combo for the 2nd and 3rd row seats. I’m wanting to retain the rear 12v power socket on the left side of the cargo area and this USB port is going on the passenger side where it will be utilized more often anyway.

I found the wire harness that must have plugged into the rear volume/mode control unit (if equipped) and I found the hot wire. AM I on the right track by just splicing into the hot wire then sanding down the little metal bodywork “tray” thats off to the side and tapping into that for the ground wire? Should I put in an in line fuse?
I got this and two other USB set ups from Tuff Rok. Not impressed with them so far. They shipped the units without the wire looms, and I still have not received them 3 weeks later. They shipped me the wrong USB combo for the 3rd row, I wanted dual USB ports and he sent USB/12v combo. Will not even send me and extra USB port to make it right. The USB port in this unit has a loose piece rattling around in it and he said to hook it up and see if it works first before he’ll send me a new one....LOL! .....And there’s zero instructions for installation. He said he was going to email me some “suggestions” but that hasn’t happened. Anyway, I’ll get it figured out with a little help from the good fellows on here I’m sure.
I hope he makes it right because they do make some cool stuff for our trucks with more stuff on the horizon. *rant off*






 

Last edited by Daytoman; 03-06-2019 at 10:12 PM.
  #2  
Old 03-07-2019, 12:11 AM
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A typical 12v usb converter port or 12v cig outlet does use just a single 12v positive and ground. So if that hot wire you have identified has 12v(better to check with a multi-meter, but a 12v test light is ok enough) then that and a good ground location should be good as long as the paths back to the battery can can handle the amp draw of the accessories you will be plugging in. A phone charger should be ok but a 12v fridge may not be. Fuses are best used nearest the source(battery or fuse box) , you can check the wiring diagrams in the RAVE to see where that wire comes from and the size fuse it should already have in the fuse box.
 

Last edited by Sandman614; 03-07-2019 at 12:16 AM.
  #3  
Old 03-07-2019, 03:10 AM
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Make sure you splice in a fuse just for safety.
 
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Old 03-07-2019, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Sandman614
A typical 12v usb converter port or 12v cig outlet does use just a single 12v positive and ground. So if that hot wire you have identified has 12v(better to check with a multi-meter, but a 12v test light is ok enough) then that and a good ground location should be good as long as the paths back to the battery can can handle the amp draw of the accessories you will be plugging in. A phone charger should be ok but a 12v fridge may not be. Fuses are best used nearest the source(battery or fuse box) , you can check the wiring diagrams in the RAVE to see where that wire comes from and the size fuse it should already have in the fuse box.
Thats why I was wanting the 2X USB ports back there instead of the 12v/USB combo. I’ll probably never use the 12V since I have one on the other side. Ive pressed the guy to send me another USB.

I do have a multimeter I can double check it with. I’ll do that just to be sure.

This wire loom powered the volume/mode controller and powered a headphone jack. Like I said, I suck at electrical but here’s the wiring schematic. Looks like the wires run to a small amp and to the stereo? The green wire with orange tracer is the one showing to be hot with my tester.
What do you think? I guess if push comes to shove, I could keep it simple and tie into the 12v socket wires on the other side and work with that? I know what they do, where they go and its on a 25amp fuse. I’d probably not ever have all the ports and socket utilized at once.








 

Last edited by Daytoman; 03-07-2019 at 07:34 AM.
  #5  
Old 03-07-2019, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by JUKE179r
Make sure you splice in a fuse just for safety.
Yup I can do that.
 
  #6  
Old 03-07-2019, 07:28 AM
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Your experience is very similar to mine. I really want to like their products but the service side of the business is not great. I've had mud guards fail and no offer to replace but did get an offer to buy more. Had a hell of a time with the 3rd row USB power supplies, and a rear window guard that I ended up buying a second one (first one was just not the right shape). They are quick to sell and not great to support. I do like the locking center cubby box. Wish there was direct US sales and support.

Anyways. I ended up tapping in to the existing power running to the stock 12v socket in the rear for the left side. On the right side I used the hot and ground from radio control. There was a prior USB power conversation there so I replaced that and made my own wire set up to tap in.

I also found our iPhones don't always like the output. Needed to go in to them and toggle some USB accessory switch. Otherwise they would indicate unrecognized USB accessory and not charge.
 
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Old 03-07-2019, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Sean Maginness
Your experience is very similar to mine. I really want to like their products but the service side of the business is not great. I've had mud guards fail and no offer to replace but did get an offer to buy more. Had a hell of a time with the 3rd row USB power supplies, and a rear window guard that I ended up buying a second one (first one was just not the right shape). They are quick to sell and not great to support. I do like the locking center cubby box. Wish there was direct US sales and support.

Anyways. I ended up tapping in to the existing power running to the stock 12v socket in the rear for the left side. On the right side I used the hot and ground from radio control. There was a prior USB power conversation there so I replaced that and made my own wire set up to tap in.

I also found our iPhones don't always like the output. Needed to go in to them and toggle some USB accessory switch. Otherwise they would indicate unrecognized USB accessory and not charge.
Yeah, Ive got it somewhere in my Instagram DMs where he talks about excellent customer service. LOL! I flat out told him this morning to just send me another USB port because thats what I wanted in the first place. I also bought a locking cubby box, a second row USB/Power port and a front USB/Power port, So I dropped a bit of money on this stuff. If he wont, I’ll have to start posting up on his Insta and FB feeds about the issue.He seems like a good dude so I hope he’ll take care of it.
Lucky8 is now their US distributor. That literally just happened. It should help a lot, because him trying to handle everything from Jolly Ol England is probably rough. He just came out with a real nice rear bumper and is fixing to have a front bumper as well. So I appreciate his work in offering products for our trucks but......

Thanks for the info. I’d really like to get it to work on the right side. Looks like I may be on the right track.
 

Last edited by Daytoman; 03-07-2019 at 08:36 AM.
  #8  
Old 03-07-2019, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Daytoman


Yeah, Ive got it somewhere in my Instagram DMs where he talks about excellent customer service. LOL! I flat out told him this morning to just send me another USB port because thats what I wanted in the first place. I also bought a locking cubby box, a second row USB/Power port and a front USB/Power port, So I dropped a bit of money on this stuff. If he wont, I’ll have to start posting up on his Insta and FB feeds about the issue.He seems like a good dude so I hope he’ll take care of.
Lucky8 is now their US distributor. That literally just happened. It should help a lot, because him trying to handle everything from Jolly Ol England is probably rough. He just came out with a real nice rear bumper and is fixing to have a front bumper as well. So I appreciate his work in offering products for our trucks but......

Thanks for the info. I’d really like to get it to work on the right side. Looks like I may be on the right track.
The front USB pannel was something he really wanted me to pick up. I have 3 USB ports there and alternator voltage display already. Plus the pannel looks like it would block my view of the Ultragauge I have down by the hi/lo shifter. If I could try one I would test fit it to see how things work for me. But, I don't need that many USB ports up front.
 
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Old 03-07-2019, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Sean Maginness


The front USB pannel was something he really wanted me to pick up. I have 3 USB ports there and alternator voltage display already. Plus the pannel looks like it would block my view of the Ultragauge I have down by the hi/lo shifter. If I could try one I would test fit it to see how things work for me. But, I don't need that many USB ports up front.
Yeah, it sounds like you’re already USB port rich! LOL! Front USBs are must have for us. I dont really like the the 12V socket USB adaptors as I’d rather have a more “factory” look. This looks like the perfect solution. I keep my UG stuck to the change holder drawer via Velcro so it doesn’t interfere at all.
 
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Old 03-07-2019, 02:44 PM
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I'm not sure I would use the hot lead off that plug that was there for the audio controls. I don't see it in your wiring diagrams posted(and honestly cant be bothered to pull up my own) but I'm relatively certain that is a low amp feed coming through a module of some kind. You're gonna fry whatever is feeding that with the increased current if you really use it to charge anything hefty(like most new flagship phones, or tablets). Phone chargers regularly pop 10 and 15 amp fuses in dedicated accessory power outlets in vehicles. Your mileage may vary, though.
 


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