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I'm not sure I would use the hot lead off that plug that was there for the audio controls. I don't see it in your wiring diagrams posted(and honestly cant be bothered to pull up my own) but I'm relatively certain that is a low amp feed coming through a module of some kind. You're gonna fry whatever is feeding that with the increased current if you really use it to charge anything hefty(like most new flagship phones, or tablets). Phone chargers regularly pop 10 and 15 amp fuses in dedicated accessory power outlets in vehicles. Your mileage may vary, though.
I've been using the existing audio control feed for well over a year with no issues. Charging iPhones and Kindles.
I will say. With the issues I was having installing the Tuff Rok units I nearly pulled a new dedicated circuit to power them. Still might but things seem to be working now.
I'm not sure I would use the hot lead off that plug that was there for the audio controls. I don't see it in your wiring diagrams posted(and honestly cant be bothered to pull up my own) but I'm relatively certain that is a low amp feed coming through a module of some kind. You're gonna fry whatever is feeding that with the increased current if you really use it to charge anything hefty(like most new flagship phones, or tablets). Phone chargers regularly pop 10 and 15 amp fuses in dedicated accessory power outlets in vehicles. Your mileage may vary, though.
Well I could be wrong as I’m not good at reading these diagrams (posted above) but it looks like it’s got power coming from an amp of some kind.
I'm not sure I would use the hot lead off that plug that was there for the audio controls. I don't see it in your wiring diagrams posted(and honestly cant be bothered to pull up my own) but I'm relatively certain that is a low amp feed coming through a module of some kind. You're gonna fry whatever is feeding that with the increased current if you really use it to charge anything hefty(like most new flagship phones, or tablets). Phone chargers regularly pop 10 and 15 amp fuses in dedicated accessory power outlets in vehicles. Your mileage may vary, though.
Is this in your experience? This is the first I have heard of it? Most high output phone chargers offer 2-4a output current so unless the circuit you add it too is already close to being overloaded they should not be popping 10 and 15 amp fuses.
I see a lot of customers come through our shop with popped accessory fuses from phone chargers. They shouldn't be drawing such a high current, but they do somehow. We see a handful every month
That isn't rover specific, but general across the dozen or so brands that we see at work
OK, so the wires finally showed up from Tuff Rok. They didnt send the correct wires for the 2X USB port assembly but I made the 3 port wires work. Spliced in a 10amp inline fuse and tapped a good ground. They seem to work fine and the iPhone is accepting a charge from all ports.
I removed the 12v port and pulled a USB port from the 3 port rear ashtray replacement set up to make this a 2X USB setup. On a positive note, Phil, with Tuff Rok, is sending me more wires and he is also sending me another USB port to make up for sending the 12v/USB combo. So he is working with me, I just had to press the issue a bit.
Thanks for the input guys.
Last edited by Daytoman; Mar 10, 2019 at 10:50 AM.
Installed the front transfer lever panel in Clarkson04 last weekend and ran wires for the second row accessory panel as well. Turned out great. Another really nice update.
I’ve been rocking a Dual USB Port/voltage meter in the front OEM cigarette lighter location for years in all of my D2’s. I do not smoke, units I use have a cover, and IMHO look much better than the OEM broken cigarette lighter! If I need the cigarette type port for something = one in the rear. My air pump runs off the battery so I’m good to go.
When I posted the mod years ago it was met with some people liking it, some people bashing me for not keeping it OEM, and others for saying they smoked. Sorry but if I smoked a darn lighter in my pocket would be way more reliable!
The Tuff Rok setup looks nice, but I like my 15.00 units just fine lol.
I’ve been rocking a Dual USB Port/voltage meter in the front OEM cigarette lighter location for years in all of my D2’s. I do not smoke, units I use have a cover, and IMHO look much better than the OEM broken cigarette lighter! If I need the cigarette type port for something = one in the rear. My air pump runs off the battery so I’m good to go.
When I posted the mod years ago it was met with some people liking it, some people bashing me for not keeping it OEM, and others for saying they smoked. Sorry but if I smoked a darn lighter in my pocket would be way more reliable!
The Tuff Rok setup looks nice, but I like my 15.00 units just fine lol.
Yeah I don’t need that cigarette lighter either. I wanted something mounted up to give it a bit more of a factory look with options of what I could mount in there over time. So right now that I got 4 USB ports up front and will have 4 more in the second row, along with an extra 12v outlet up front and one for the second row. Way overkill but I like it.
