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How bad is this T-case leak?

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  #1  
Old 08-02-2011 | 06:18 PM
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Default How bad is this T-case leak?

Hey guys I think i've got a leak on my T-case. I just changed the fluid out with 85-140 about a month or two ago. I never see any drips or puddles on the floor/pavement however I have noticed drips on the cross bar and on the bolts of the t-case. In these photos I wiped the transfercase and cross bar about two days before with a paper towel and they have already come back.

However I was wondering if maybe this leak looks exacerbated because its close to the a/c drains. Would it be possible that it is water collecting with some gear oil/residue and making this look worse than it is?

Judging by the pics how bad would you say this leak is? I'm trying to give myself a timetable on when I need to get this resealed.








 

Last edited by DiscoRover007; 08-02-2011 at 06:21 PM.
  #2  
Old 08-02-2011 | 06:19 PM
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Continued:




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All help appreciated. Thanks
 

Last edited by DiscoRover007; 08-02-2011 at 06:21 PM.
  #3  
Old 08-02-2011 | 06:44 PM
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touch it. ru it in between your fingers. then mix a lil 80-140 with a little water and see if it feels like the same thing. or the much easier way is to check the fluid level. But that much fluid in two days is alot.
 
  #4  
Old 08-03-2011 | 11:26 AM
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You can drain it. Save your fluid you just put in it. Pull the large inspection plate. Wipe it super clean with alcohol/Simple Green. Put ATV sealant back in each bolt hole too. I've heard it leaks through the bolt holes. It took me about 1.5 hours by the time you pump the gear oil back in. Mine still leaks a little, but have not done the bolt hole thing yet. Also put a 1/4 bottle of White Shepard in Stop seal in. But you must drive it for at least 30mins to get it well mixed in.
 
  #5  
Old 08-07-2011 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by bosshogt
You can drain it. Save your fluid you just put in it. Pull the large inspection plate. Wipe it super clean with alcohol/Simple Green. Put ATV sealant back in each bolt hole too. I've heard it leaks through the bolt holes. It took me about 1.5 hours by the time you pump the gear oil back in. Mine still leaks a little, but have not done the bolt hole thing yet. Also put a 1/4 bottle of White Shepard in Stop seal in. But you must drive it for at least 30mins to get it well mixed in.
I'm assuming the large inspection plate is the piece that the drain plug is sitting in? I though with ATV you're supposed to wait like 12 hours before adding fluid?

Do you think that universal gasket material could work here?

Thanks for your advice.
 
  #6  
Old 08-10-2011 | 10:35 AM
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I just re-sealed that transfer case cover on my DII. Took several hours, mainly due to fussing with two seized then broken crossmember bolts. I used Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker on the cover, blue threadlocker on all the cover bolts (surprised to find this used originally) and teflon tape on the drain and fill plugs. I only waited a couple of hours to refill the transfer case with oil.

I'm happy to say that this particular leak is fixed - my transfer case and garage floor are dry as a bone. Now to tackle the seeping rear main seal and oil pan gasket.
 
  #7  
Old 08-10-2011 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by KenR
I just re-sealed that transfer case cover on my DII. Took several hours, mainly due to fussing with two seized then broken crossmember bolts. I used Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker on the cover, blue threadlocker on all the cover bolts (surprised to find this used originally) and teflon tape on the drain and fill plugs. I only waited a couple of hours to refill the transfer case with oil.

I'm happy to say that this particular leak is fixed - my transfer case and garage floor are dry as a bone. Now to tackle the seeping rear main seal and oil pan gasket.
Did you use any torque spec for tightening the bolts on the t-case cover? Or just "tight"?

And does the cross member have to come off or can the cover slide out?

Thanks for the advice.
 

Last edited by DiscoRover007; 08-10-2011 at 11:06 AM.
  #8  
Old 08-10-2011 | 10:59 AM
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I noticed the same thing with mine after servicing. I am going to have to bite the bullet; re-drain and seal....dang it.
 
  #9  
Old 08-10-2011 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by DiscoRover007
Did you use any torque spec for tightening the bolts on the t-case cover? Or just "tight"?

And does the cross member have to come off or can the cover slide out?

Thanks for the advice.
Cover bolts get 25 Nm.

The cover might be able to slide out with the cross member in-place but that looked like more of a PITA to me than dealing with the broken bolts.


Looks like I spoke too soon about the dry garage floor. While my cover is sealed up nice and tight, it appears that I've got another leak at the front output housing-to-transfer case surface. I'm not sure this one can be dealt with while the box is still in the truck and, frankly, I'm thinking about yanking the whole thing out and sealing everything once and for all (or once and for now?).

What's the saying...if there isn't oil under a British car there isn't oil in it?

Dammit.
 
  #10  
Old 08-10-2011 | 07:58 PM
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while all the ideas may work......... I am thinking that you have a bad output shaft seal. and the only way to fix that is to drop the transfer case.
While transfer cases do leak.... they do not have that much in them in truth. So my thought is if you were leaking that much from the T/C you might be hearing the lower values of grease/gear oil. plus the general viscosity does not strike me as a T/C leak. just another thought for you to consider.
 


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