I went to go start my disco this morning and found a large puddle of coolant under it. I popped the hood and saw that the bleeder screw had broken in half, the bottom still stuck in the T connector. I went to the hardware store and replaced the T connector with another one until I can get an OEM replacement.

Without the bleeder screw in the system, how do I bleed it? Do I even need to replace the connector with the original design that has a bleeder screw?



Side note: It lost about a liter of fluid in total.

 

You could try this:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...chnique-48558/

I've done it a couple of times and it works well. Just keep a close eye on your temps.

 

I just checked my disco today and the coolant level had gone down about an inch. I still get the waterfall noise inside the cabin. I will try that method today.

 

you need the bleed screw to properly relieve the system of air. I would not try this alternative method suggested. There was a thread on this a couple of months ago and several senior members even asked the moderator to pull that post. Why don't you just tap into the part of the screw that is broken off and back it out? then you replace the screw, no big deal. otherwise you have to buy the entire upper hose assembly which is about $50 on the cheap side up to about $90 for full retail price. Either way, you need the T-fitting with the bleed screw in it. end of story. don't try to bleed the air with the engine running and cap removed from tank. this is a terrible idea.

 

Another idea, drill and tap the tee that was installed in place of the plastic tee. You can get a compressor drain from Home Depot and end up with a better system.
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4-in-NPT-Draincock-HDA71000AV/100095680/

 

I agree with chubbs878. If it's only the bleed screw that's broken why not just try to replace it? Replacement bleed screws are available for a few bucks from your local BMW dealer. (Probably the only thing you can get from your BMW dealer for only a few bucks.)

Hopefully you have not thrown away the tee. With the tee off the truck you can, one way or another, get the screw out. You could try carefully drilling out most of the broken screw and then "chip out" what remains. Or you could drill a hole through what remains of the screw and insert a wood screw in it that would fit tight. You could probably then back out the screw, or perhaps continue turning it clockwise so it comes out inside the tee. Better yet would be an EZ out, if you have one, but in this instance you are probably don't need that. Just be careful to not damage the threads in the tee itself.

 

I ended up trying the "bad" method because I knew I didn't loose that much coolant (1L/13.5L). I kind of worked. I didn't want to reuse the original T connector (I hate plastic parts). So I went to the hardware store and bought a copper T connector and a riv-nut. I drilled a hole in the top of the copper T and put in the riv-nut with some RTV to seal it. Then I bled the rest of the system. In total, I only had to add a little over a liter of coolant. I think the "bad" method of bleeding is good if your in a pinch, but most people have a bleeder screw so they can use the correct method. So I guess I pretty much ended up doing what Joemamma1954 suggested.
In case anyone was wondering: the copper T connector, riv-nut, and 3 hose clamps cost me $9 at OSH.

Thanks for all the input.

 

Nice and cheap modification.

 

With the factory setup, you can make your repairs and bleed your system on the side of the road or in a parking lot. With this other thing like JoeMamma is talking about, wouldn't you be up **** creek if you have a cooling system malfunction in the field? Cross your fingers that you don't blow the motor trying to get it home where you can bleed the air out again? I don't know how all of that works exactly but I'm getting anxiety even thinking about it.

 

There should be no difference in functionality between my setup and the original because they both have bleed screws, mine being a riv-nut. The only diffference is that mine is copper and the original is ABS plastic.