How to check coil resistance on a DII
#1
How to check coil resistance on a DII
Hello:
I have a 2002 DII with over 50K miles, rough idle, surging, loss of power and OBD codes for random cylinder misfires as well as cylinder 1 and 6 misfire. I changed the spark plugs and checked the ignition system with a test probe as described here. The spark did seem kind of weak on two cyclinders (second one from firewall on passenger side and fourth on driver side).
I ordered new ignition wires and new seal/o-rings and I'm getting ready to take out the IM but I want to check the coils resistance while I'm in there and I'm unsure how to do it. The Rave manual has the impedance values for the primary and secondary coils but I am not sure where to hook up the multimeter. All the examples I find online are for the old-style coils with only two terminals and the spark plug wire.
Also, what else should I check while I'm under there? A mechanic friend says he unplugs the injectors one by one to see which one may be failing but I'm guessing running the engine or even cranking it is out of the question since the coolant rails are out. I would like to check the voltage coming into the coils and fuel pressure (the test valve seems to be hidden under there as well looking at the diagram on Rave) but I am unsure how to do this without the engine running or at least cranking.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Camuyano
King George, VA
2002 Land Rover Discovery SE
I have a 2002 DII with over 50K miles, rough idle, surging, loss of power and OBD codes for random cylinder misfires as well as cylinder 1 and 6 misfire. I changed the spark plugs and checked the ignition system with a test probe as described here. The spark did seem kind of weak on two cyclinders (second one from firewall on passenger side and fourth on driver side).
I ordered new ignition wires and new seal/o-rings and I'm getting ready to take out the IM but I want to check the coils resistance while I'm in there and I'm unsure how to do it. The Rave manual has the impedance values for the primary and secondary coils but I am not sure where to hook up the multimeter. All the examples I find online are for the old-style coils with only two terminals and the spark plug wire.
Also, what else should I check while I'm under there? A mechanic friend says he unplugs the injectors one by one to see which one may be failing but I'm guessing running the engine or even cranking it is out of the question since the coolant rails are out. I would like to check the voltage coming into the coils and fuel pressure (the test valve seems to be hidden under there as well looking at the diagram on Rave) but I am unsure how to do this without the engine running or at least cranking.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Camuyano
King George, VA
2002 Land Rover Discovery SE
#2
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Save your self a lot of grief and throw a set of 8 mm Magnacor wires on, with out removing the manifold, it is an easy project.
1 and 6 are on the same coil, but my money is on the wires failing.
Exactly what codes did you get, by number, that can make a difference.
Also, a good scanner can show the fire from each coil lead to the plugs.
1 and 6 are on the same coil, but my money is on the wires failing.
Exactly what codes did you get, by number, that can make a difference.
Also, a good scanner can show the fire from each coil lead to the plugs.
#3
Hey Mike:
The codes I got were P1300, P0301, P0306 and P0300. I used a borrowed scanner from Auto Zone so it didn't give much information.
I looked at the instructions for replacing the wires without taking the IM off but frankly I have a hard time picturing how I will be able to work back there. I figured I would take the whole thing apart and check the coils, injector connections and fuel pressure while I'm at it. I will look at it again tonight but I'm afraid of wasting a whole of time and aggravation trying to do with the IM on.
Thanks for the kind reply. Let me know if you have any more info on the codes.
-Camuyano
The codes I got were P1300, P0301, P0306 and P0300. I used a borrowed scanner from Auto Zone so it didn't give much information.
I looked at the instructions for replacing the wires without taking the IM off but frankly I have a hard time picturing how I will be able to work back there. I figured I would take the whole thing apart and check the coils, injector connections and fuel pressure while I'm at it. I will look at it again tonight but I'm afraid of wasting a whole of time and aggravation trying to do with the IM on.
Thanks for the kind reply. Let me know if you have any more info on the codes.
-Camuyano
#5
Mike:
Mine is a 2002 and it does not have secondary air. In any case, I began to take off the IM but most of the hoses around the air intake were fused to the metal so I began to take the wires off without removing the whole thing. It wasn't as bad as I thought. I've only got the bottommost 2 on the driver side left. I need to go out today and buy myself a nice long screw driver so I can pry 'em. After that, I'll put it all back together and see if it fixes the problem before messing with the coils.
Thanks for offering to walk me through the process. I may take you up on it if I can't get the rest of it done tonight. Stay tuned...
Thanks,
Camuyano
Mine is a 2002 and it does not have secondary air. In any case, I began to take off the IM but most of the hoses around the air intake were fused to the metal so I began to take the wires off without removing the whole thing. It wasn't as bad as I thought. I've only got the bottommost 2 on the driver side left. I need to go out today and buy myself a nice long screw driver so I can pry 'em. After that, I'll put it all back together and see if it fixes the problem before messing with the coils.
Thanks for offering to walk me through the process. I may take you up on it if I can't get the rest of it done tonight. Stay tuned...
Thanks,
Camuyano
#6
#7
All:
I finished the job this morning and took her for a test drive. It worked like a champ! The check engine light even went off by itself. (I thought I would have to hook up to the scanner to clear the codes.)
It wasn't as painful as I thought but not pleasant either. Even with mechanic's gloves, I still beat up my hands pretty good. Getting the cables back on the guides took almost as long as putting the cables on. I guess I didn't have to have 'em all perfect but I'm **** like that.
Instead of bending a screwdriver as suggested in the instructions, I purchased a pair of long reach bent nose pliers, which worked really well for pulling of the cables from the lowermost plugs on the coils. They also came in handy for tightening the clamps around the air and coolant hoses.
Mike: Thanks for the help. I'm glad I didn't go through with taking off the IM as I planned.
Later,
Camuyano
I finished the job this morning and took her for a test drive. It worked like a champ! The check engine light even went off by itself. (I thought I would have to hook up to the scanner to clear the codes.)
It wasn't as painful as I thought but not pleasant either. Even with mechanic's gloves, I still beat up my hands pretty good. Getting the cables back on the guides took almost as long as putting the cables on. I guess I didn't have to have 'em all perfect but I'm **** like that.
Instead of bending a screwdriver as suggested in the instructions, I purchased a pair of long reach bent nose pliers, which worked really well for pulling of the cables from the lowermost plugs on the coils. They also came in handy for tightening the clamps around the air and coolant hoses.
Mike: Thanks for the help. I'm glad I didn't go through with taking off the IM as I planned.
Later,
Camuyano
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