o2 heater? No. Just p0134 and p0154, both front o2 sensors NO activity.
Yes, I have RAVE, but for someone with no experience it can leave out quite a few details and "how exactly's". I do appreciate your help

 

If the O2 heater fails it either goes "open" or "short". If it is short (to ground) it blows a fuse. If it is open, the computer see's the open because no residual voltage comes back to the computer, and sets a code. I'll look for the wire diagram on RAVE but you may well have a bad sensor.

 

They (both front o2's) are going "open", no blown fuses and no other codes.
Both front o2's are "new" from Atlantic British, they are actually the 2nd "new" pair i've had sent in from them. I've got another "new" set from them in box still, they are good about sending replacements.
FYI - I also swapped in an original LR o2 with an orange connector in, same results. Open loop, no activity, steady at .449 (450) and running crazy rich.
I can't be positive the OEM LR one I swapped in was properly functioning as it came from a truck with the heads out...but it was working just fine last time the truck ran.

Anyone have any opinions on the o2 sensor connectors needing to be the matching color? ie. rears orange & fronts grey. All 4 (fronts & rears) from AB have grey connectors. The 1 rear o2 I bought from BP of Utah came with an orange connector, so i'm assuming the color coded connectors is no longer important, just a reman color choice.

 

I did test the o2 plugs for continuity between the ECM and the plugs. Both front o2 plugs are getting power (pink/brown wire), and the other 3 wires on both front o2 plugs tested out for continuity between/from the ECM as well. The engine management print outs definitely helped out there.

I'm searching for the graphs I've heard about that show the voltage ratings I should be getting to see if any of the readings were off enough or off the curve to look further into. If anyone knows where these voltage specs are...

 

NO MORE CODES! PROBLEM FIXED!

And in the end the correct answer was...a very slight oil leak that dripped enough into the o2 connector to kill/ruin/mess up the heater circuit or heater element of the o2 sensors.

I'm surprised that my very slight oil leak managed to get oil into both front connectors and to wipe out the heating elements within 2-3 days of installing the new sensors, twice! I check my oil every week, and don't have to add a single drop between changes, so pretty slight leak.

Apparently the o2 sensors are much more sensitive to oil then I thought. Each time I changed them I didn't even notice any oil on/in them at all.

Long story slightly shortened: we cleaned the heck out of both harness connectors with brake cleaner, then electrical cleaner, then used the air gun to dry them out, filled them up with dielectric grease, and whammy they worked and upon heating up, sent the system into closed loop! First time i've been out of open loop for months.

To ensure a drip of oil doesn't take these new o2's out, we wrapped the entire connectors and exposed wires in electrical tape and then zip tied them up and out of harms way. (we couldn't clip them back up anyways because they were covered with the tape)

Hopefully this solves the problem and it isn't something else shorting out the heating element of the o2's...hopefully.

 

Thank you for reporting the fix!!