My water pump crapped out.

So, I have to memove the engine fan. The manual shows 2 wenches. Anyone know what size I need ?

Wrenches are marked
LRT 12-093 and LRT 12-094. Are they specialty wrenches?

 

Go rent a Ford fan clutch wrench, 32mm, or 36mm, I forget.
Leave the belt on, put on wrench, smack wrench with hammer, hard quick blows.
Once it breaks loose unscrew by hand.
You may want to take a long screwdriver and place it on the fan clutch nut and drive the screwdriver into the nut, spin water pump, repeat to break loose any corrosion.
A air chisel works best, a few quick burst's will do the trick.

 

I use a crescent wrench, and whomp it hard to the left (when standing in front of the truck) with a hammer. If you use slow and careful force, it will just turn with you. If you use another socket wrench to increase tension on belt (rather than loosen) it also helps. And we are not talking love taps.

 

yeah, these guys are spot on.
Listen to them.
When you get that crescent wrench - make sure it is exactly tight onto the big nut.
Get it situated straight up at 12 oclock.

Put rags under the water pump pulley to make it get stuck.

Get a 5 pound stubby hammer from Sears or similar.
Whack it counter clock wise.

Warning - don't whack the alternator pulley in the process.

That's it. You'll get it.

You can wedge screw drivers under the crescent wrench - one big one and that will help you keep the water pump pulley from moving too.

This is more an art and a been there and done it - than a science.

 

Pix - note that you don't want to bust the T fitting either on the rad hoses. Put some folded carboard or thick towels over there in case you slip up.

 

or as you can see by savanaha picture the handle it made to take a 1/2 drive ratched or breaker bar

 

36mm btw. You can borrow one from the parts store (autozone, o'reillys, etc) for $20 deposit IIRC.

 

The 1/2" Breaker Bar helps a lot. If, you at some point, you didn't bust your knuckles, or if you have less than one hand bleeding, you did it wrong

 

Here's what the factory wrench set looks like, the set is for gas and diesel applications (real useful in the US huh?) but the bottom wrench on the right end is what's used on our engines to hold the pulley. It is handy to use and looks like it would be simple to make out of some bar stock, it's about 1/4" thick and the little holes fit over the nuts holding the pulley to the water pump and the center "U" is big enough to go over the hub. If anyone is interested in making one, I could draw this up in SolidWorks and post a JPEG or PDF file.

 

Hi Bkreutz. I have just purchased a TD5 D2 and was looking around the net on how to change my belt and I came across this. I would love to make one of these tools. Would you be able to supply me with the plan of how to make it, and what details you need from me to get it to me.

Thanks Dave.