thanks for the info and help guys.

so after having it up on the hoist and thouroghly inspected we found where the noises were coming from.

the brake pad springs were broken, causing them to move around on the sliders when the d1 is moving.

we greased everything that had a nipple (women also...)

the drive/prop shafts are good, and from what we can see the u-joints are fine as well.

but we did find many many leaks.....as of late i could tell that the LR had been leaking......
the low pressure power steering hose has to be replaced
every tranny cooler line has to be replaced
the upper and lower engine oil cooler lines have to be replaced
as well a small amount of seeping at the transfer box.

I also have leaky shocks, and a rotten exhuast front to back with small leaks. And my tires will need replacing very soon.

I got quiet a large parts list for it, but she still runs like a dream and plan on keeping it for a long time. I'll be getting the all this stuff replaced, and at the same time I'll be making a order at toddcosuspensions.com for 2" lift springs and pro comp shocks, and exhaust headers.

i'll be purchasing as well 265/75/16's tires (dont know which ones yet)

with the headers i'll be doing a custom stainless exhuast front to back with high flow cats (either 2.5" or 3" not sure yet)

I CANT WAIT!!

 

That was where I was going with it. I replaced mine with slotted but didn't replace the springs. Chattered like crazy until I put new springs on.

replace the factory hose clamps with worm type clamps and tighten for the p/s leak. Order a new hose if that doesn't work. Also, White shepherd does well for a small transfer case leak.

You will have to get shorty's on the headers. Look at where your steering shaft is on the driver's side.

Go through all of your wheel bearings and check the major service in the sticky. You need to make sure she stays running good before you start modding it.

 

we checked wheel bearings today as well.

I will be replacing the serp belt as well, and i'll be changing the plugs and wires.

as well i will be changing the tranny fluid and filter, and new fluids in the diffs and transfer box. i will be geting a gastket a seal kit for the transfer box.

I will be doing a custom exhuast from front to back, so the toddco headers will work fine. they are made for the n/a disco.

I will start a new thread with before, during and after pics and sound clips.

 

wheel bearings are fun. Did you re-pack them while you were in there?

 

I didnt, we checked and re-packed them last Aug when we did the brakes.

 

As you know, Disco engine bays get hot as hell stock, so expect it to get even hotter with headers. I'd definitely get the ceramic coated to reduce the heat some. Wrapping them works also, but then they tend to rust out quickly, especially if they aren't coated.
But IMO if you're not doing a lot of other engine modifications to increase the output, headers are a waste of money on a Disco. I haven't seen much evidence that they have difficulty breathing.

 

I think the combo of a engine back hi flow exhaust system should yield some gains.

its more of a plan for the future, when the 4.0 needs replacing, build a mild 4.0 or 4.6 where i will install a performance cam, do some head work and a chip. at that point the headers and hi flow exhuast will come into play more. Or depending on how much i love my disco possibly a 5.0 HO rover v8


but if you think that a 4.0 V8 is only making 182 hp, there is alot of gains to be had as it should be making more power then that.

in my VW Passat VR6 before the turbo it was rated at 172hp, and it has 2 less cyl's and is only 2.8L.Atfer the turbo shes now making 350ish whp. i know im conparing apples to oranges, but im just trying to point out the lack of power.

A TVR uses rover v8's, and make much more power.

same with these guys

as for them having difficulty breathing, these guys on a stock 4.6 bottom end with high flow heads, big cam, headers, and big bore intake with bigger injectores and chip made 300 hp.

I'd say there is alot to be gained in breathing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYBPQ...eature=related

 

Like I said, without a lot of other mods.
And to get better breathing you'll need one of those air filters, which you don't want to use off-road as they don't filter as well.
It's all trade-offs.

 

What i meant is, even a stock bottom end v8 will make good power with mods that allow it to breathe better.

I do have a k&n filter in the factory air box, and with the header back custon hi-flow exhaust I should see some notciable gains in power and efficiency. Plus it should sound sweet.


I dont believe the myths about K&N's....they filter fine they are a proven product.

 

It's not a myth. It's true they let more air through, but at the expense of filtering ability. Independent comparisons have clearly documented that they don't filter as well as paper filters. As I said, probably fine for the street, but if you off-road you're just asking for trouble.
There's probably a reason K&N's warranty fine print says if you use their filters off-road it voids the warranty, even on their dirt bike filters.

The other common issue with K&N's is that you have to be extremely careful with oiling as it will wreck the D1 MAF's. Too little oil and they filter even worse, too much and you're buying a new MAF. And they aren't cheap http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-3...sensor-v8.aspx
Dirt is another issue for MAF's and many a D1 MAF has been ruined by attempts to clean them. DII MAF's, while cheaper than D1, are also easier to clean. Poorer filtering = more dirt.