Does anyone know how long after clearing engine fault codes or repairing issues that trigger codes and the check engine light the D2 is ready to smog test?

I understand its usually a matter of miles that need to be driven before a car is clear for smog testing so that cars can’t be tested immediately after clearing codes.

Anyone know the exact mileage?

 

Perhaps someone else knows the details, but it's not just the number of miles. It's also the number of drive cycles, both low-miles and higher-miles.

 

Watching my scanner it's around 65-120 miles.

 

Cool, I’ll try to drive it a bit more and see. I might do a pre-test at smog shop if it’s free.

I’m concerned since I’ve got a misfire code that keeps returning, but it’s been off since replacing CPS - possibly fixed misfire issue?

 

Pour some BG 44K or Berrymans B-12 in the tank, run it like you stole it, then get your SMOG check.
Worked every time for me in Georgia. lol

 

Oh that's right you were in Atlanta and had emissions.

 

Not sure why it was so quick. But yesterday I had all readiness checks besides evap within 25 miles after doing repairs/reconnecting the battery.
Was watching with the Torque app.
Pulled in passed smog and was on my way.

Were allowed 2 unready checks here so the evap was a non issue.

 

Hmm, I’ve got EVAP (doesn’t matter in CA, apparently), AIR, O2S still red... definitely drove over 25 miles. I’ll keep driving and try to estimate how many miles it took to be ready. I hope she holds out for smog! If that misfire code comes back over the long weekend... Anyone know if the CPS could have been related to that sort of code? I just replaced the CPS (a lot of fun). I replaced the SVS too - it’s been a fun week of wrenching.

 

workshop manual (pp. 18-2-58)

 

See this for drive cycle info: 2000 Discovery ii Drive Cycle info needed - General Discussion Forum - NCLR - Northern California Land Rover Club

Passed smog in CA finally!

I read through the drive cycle procedures and tried my best to replicate them. I was feeling good, so I put my scanner on and ran a smog test readiness check. The scanned gave me the green light finally, so I took her into a smog shop I found online that was open til 6PM.

I just wanted to update y’all again saying that after I replaced the crankshaft position sensor (I was getting a misfire code I couldn’t figure out) and the purge valve, I ran a smog pre-test using my scanning tool and took my D2 into a smog shop. She passed. I can’t wait to get the registration sticker finally. I’m so relieved. California regulations are torture.

I only replaced the CPS when she died while at a stop and wouldn’t start, except for a few times here and there but died again. I thought I had a much more serious issue that had to do with the ticking and low compression in one of the cylinders. Just the CPS throwing that misfire code and causing her to stumble.

The purge valve was a relatively simple job, just a bit of fight with hoses, clamps and working in a somewhat tight area. I pulled the idle control-throttle body hose off the throttle body end to get more space and disconnected some other connectors that were in the way. Now that I have an idea of what I’m doing, I’ll make a video if it happens again.

Getting to the CPS was a pain for me, by the way. Maybe someone has a better way about it.

I bought a Bosch CPS for $52 on Amazon - the best price I could find: Bosch Automotive 0261210158Crankshaft Position Sensor