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two hours or so. i did it just like you're planning. do remember that you'll probably want to take some time to clean it and you may also have to clean the mating surfaces of both the pan and the block.
2-3 hrs is what it just took me. If you don't already have the two rubber plugs ordered, you might want too. Otherwise, don't pull them if you don't have too, you'll never get them back in the pan.
Also, take the torque requirements seriously. I managed to strip a bolt out.
If able, remove the cross member, it makes removing/reinstalling much more easy.
i didn't find it was that big of a deal to leave the crossmember in place. more hassle to remove it than it was to leave it alone.
i do have a slight lift (about 1") which might be giving me more room between the engine and the chassis components.
4 more bolts to get the rear cap off, then you can replace the crucifix seals. The Rover v8 has an interesting rear seal design that means the rear seal almost never leaks, but the crucifix seals can. Most rear seals are under pressure from bearing leakage from the main bearing, however the Rover v8 has a void between the rear seal and the rear main. They put a drain slot in the rear cap in that void, so the oil drains back in to the pan. However the side crucifix seals are under pressure and can leak, some were known to be installed incorrectly at the factory. Can't change the rear seal, but the crucifix seals are easy. Two main cap bolts, two side bolts.
You sir are a gentleman and a scholar. Thanks for posting those photos. I'll order those crucifix seals right now. Are these they? https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/LUN000010 They look different than what's in the photos.
Anything else I should know about their replacement? What are they referred to as in RAVE?
Last edited by Brandon318; May 28, 2019 at 09:37 PM.