Here's the youtube video:


For those that don't know, this is a newly rebuilt engine with nearly everything new ... except still original pulley. Pulley does have some cracking rubber. It has probably always wobbled, but I forgot to check right after the rebuild.

No wobble in any other pulley's

I may need to torque it down again (I torqued it on an engine stand) but how the heck do you hold the crank from spinning? I could screw a bolt into the flywheel via the access hole, but will that hold up to 200+ foot pounds?

 

Not trying to scare you, but I've had one of those pulley's separate from the rubber and fall off. It wasn't that big of a deal, but it could leave you stranded. Mine was nice enough to self destruct just as I pulled out of my driveway!

 

If it's got cracks in the rubber section and you are unsure of the integrity of the pulley it's best to replace it.

At worst it's cheaper than a smashed timing case and for around $200.

 

I agree, I ordered one from lrdirect for $300 today, crossing my fingers it gets delivered before by Friday as I'm moving... 1,000 miles and towing. I wanted to get an idea from y'all what you thought of the wobble first / how much of a problem it could be

What's the deal with the little weights on it? Do I move the weight from the old one to the exact same spot on the new one... or?

 

There is no guarantee that transferring the weights from the old pulley will in fact balance the new 1. Google search or get the advice of a friendly mechanic on the damper. It does have to be balanced to the rotating assembly or else it's just an added catastrophe, new or old.
There is a tool that bolts into it the balancer pulley with a couple of 10mm tapped threads. LR makes 1 for it; the odds of an off-the-shelf unit being a proper fit is slim. I actually fab'd a holder tool on the fly but it the bolts gave due to poor design. I finally broke it loose 1 day when I had the sump off. Cut a 2x4 block & braced it between the ground and a crankshaft lobe. Another method is attaching your breaker bar/socket combo and bump the starter, allowing the nearest framework or crossmember/etc to hold the bar from turning over with the engine & breaking the bolt free, which is the simplest/easiest of them all... You can remove the fuel pump relay for added caution, thereby making it idiot-proof.

 

Jeff, the weights are to balance the existing old pulley whereas the new pulley should come ready balanced ready to bolt on.

 

I can't find any definitive info on the 'net about the weights. Everyone says something different, and its dependent on the make/model of the engine as to how the rotating assembly is balanced. I'll try calling some indie shops I guess.

As for the holder tool, yeah I know of those solutions. When I rebuilt it, I jammed a block of wood in the crank web. Worked ok. I don't want to have to drain the oil and pull the sump just for this. I need to torque it, not break it loose, so using the starter is a no go.
I found the official tool on eBay, and it's not the worst deal I've ever seen:
Land Rover 300Tdi, 200Tdi / Jaguar Crank Locking tool (LRT 12 080) (VS4985) | eBay

other sites sell it for 200$+

It's the right tool number... but it has 4 bolts, v8 pulley only has 2. I suppose this is a multi-model tool. The td5 requires 340 foot lbs (!!) as opposed to the v8's 200. 4 bolts is probably to accommodate that extra torque

 

Oh you just want to tighten it. Then ya it's either the LR designed tool or make your own. Given those EBay pics, I would be inclined to make a tool as I had the pulley in my hand already. That is your choice. On the other topic, you may also get varying solutions from mechanics too. Now that I think about it, phoning an engine builder will get you a more definitive answer. Guys that use engine builders are the type who will notice a wobbly crank damper so their methods are proven for the most part. Your everyday tech does work for people who don't even know how to open their hood; the techs rarely get feedback on their work. They only hear back when the owners car doesn't make it home from the shop. Get my drift?

 

Someday when I get a welder and learn how to use it, I'd totally make it myself. But if there's one thing I've learned in my first year of working on cars... its that having the right tool for the job makes alllll the difference in the world. I can stomach $100 for that

Turns out Land Rover has a live chat specialist online on their website at 10pm PST. Whaddayaknow. Parts dept will call me tomorrow to confirm or deny OffroadFrance's claim

 

But definitely post your results. This question on the damper replacement & balancing was proposed not too long ago & from what I remember, a concrete procedure was never provided. The solution will help others in their future searches.