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hub nut removal and replacement

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  #11  
Old 09-04-2015, 11:06 AM
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So you need to extend your breaker bar so you can stand on it at a point 2'7" - 2'8" from the centre and you won't even brake a sweat.
 
  #12  
Old 09-04-2015, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Alphamale
So you need to extend your breaker bar so you can stand on it at a point 2'7" - 2'8" from the centre and you won't even brake a sweat.
That I will do! Thanks!
 
  #13  
Old 09-04-2015, 11:43 AM
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Charlie, I missed your last sentence and what you've been told about extending a torque wrench is correct. You would push it beyond it's designed tolerance. So use a breaker bar wherever you need a force higher than your torque wrenches' max.
 
  #14  
Old 09-04-2015, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Alphamale
Charlie, I missed your last sentence and what you've been told about extending a torque wrench is correct. You would push it beyond it's designed tolerance. So use a breaker bar wherever you need a force higher than your torque wrenches' max.
Found a SIX foot breaker bar in the shop. Hell I should take my picture with it.

It must be 6'1". Or I am really 5'10"
 

Last edited by Charlie_V; 09-04-2015 at 01:03 PM.
  #15  
Old 09-04-2015, 02:11 PM
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Charlie you should weigh that big bar and allow for some of its weight in addition to your own. If it weighs a couple of Lb then reduce the level length by 1".
 
  #16  
Old 09-04-2015, 03:06 PM
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WTH are those last few posts about?

In any case, when removing a high torque fastener, don't press down or stand on the bar, you want it more or less horizontal and lift with it. If it gives suddenly it's a lot easier to control when lifting.
 
  #17  
Old 09-04-2015, 03:11 PM
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This may assist in the understanding of the torque and the mechanics of leverage.

Levers and Torque

For the purposes of your exercise 360 lb/ft divided by say a 3' length bar is approx 120 lbs (for arguments sake) so the force required for a 3' bar would be 120 lbs (which isn't quite true but good enough for the exercise of loosening and retightening the axle nut unless you want to go really technical)

Unfortunately, I have an industrial torque wrench, a Norbar, but it only registers 250 lb/ft max whereas 360 lb/ft is 488 n/m (approx) and a good quality (calibrated) torque wrench will set you back between $500 to $1000 or the alternative is a torque multiplier (used for undoing large truck lug nuts) say at 2:1 or 3:1 will cost you around $100 but for your exercise personal weight is sufficient as there are so many other factors to be established, friction, stiction, torque accuracy etc etc the latter being a shot in the dark with most torque wrenches.
 
  #18  
Old 09-04-2015, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by antichrist
WTH are those last few posts about?

In any case, when removing a high torque fastener, don't press down or stand on the bar, you want it more or less horizontal and lift with it. If it gives suddenly it's a lot easier to control when lifting.
Exactement at 360 lb/ft most available retail torque wrenches are highly inaccurate anyways.
 
  #19  
Old 09-04-2015, 03:39 PM
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My replies are all about tightening not loosening nuts. More often than not the D2 hub nut will release relatively easily with a suitable breaker bar, I used a 2' bar without to much effort, (I'm aware, however, that in some instances Land Rover owners have found that no amount of force or extended levers would loosen their hub nuts)

All I'm detailing is how to use ones own weight to apply the required rotational force to tighten the hub nuts if you do not have a suitably rated torque wrench, but a good breaker bar.

The last few post are all about 'the hell' of some considerations that may have to be taken into consideration, such as the self weight of the bar and lever used.
 
  #20  
Old 09-04-2015, 03:53 PM
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