I made the decision!
So i am infact going with a 3" lift for my 1998 Land Rover Disco:
The kit consists of,
OME N73 front shocks,N25 rear shocks $349.00
RTE springs $315.00
Rear spring Retainers $45.00
Brake lines $26.00 each (4 or 6 lines required)
Rear Links w/bushings $325.00
Front radius arms w/bushings $325.00
all together for 1,385 bucks
But a question, On the webpage where im buying it, it says Driveshafts not included on 3 and 5" lifts...So i have to buy a new driveshaft too?
The kit consists of,
OME N73 front shocks,N25 rear shocks $349.00
RTE springs $315.00
Rear spring Retainers $45.00
Brake lines $26.00 each (4 or 6 lines required)
Rear Links w/bushings $325.00
Front radius arms w/bushings $325.00
all together for 1,385 bucks
But a question, On the webpage where im buying it, it says Driveshafts not included on 3 and 5" lifts...So i have to buy a new driveshaft too?
Is that the Rovertym lift?
And yes, for the 3" lift you will need a new drive shaft. Almost everyone on this forum has at least been referred to Tom Woods, and I'm sure most go through them for their shafts.
And yes, for the 3" lift you will need a new drive shaft. Almost everyone on this forum has at least been referred to Tom Woods, and I'm sure most go through them for their shafts.
You will probably need at lest the front drive shaft because the new angle with the lift is more then the drive shaft can take, wait though, until you have installed the lift and see what hqappens. Some people put front D2 drive shafts as a front replacement.
If your budget is getting stretched, hold on the front radius arm replacements and do the drive shafts first if needed, they are more important then correcting the front castor angle.
If your budget is getting stretched, hold on the front radius arm replacements and do the drive shafts first if needed, they are more important then correcting the front castor angle.
I have done a couple different lifts on vehicles and the drive shaft questions is always one that on a lift this size there is not always one right answer. I would wait like Mike says and see what the shaft does, some have issues and some do not.
I am not sure how the front radius arms form them work so I do not have any ideas on that one.
Let's see the lift when done though.
I am not sure how the front radius arms form them work so I do not have any ideas on that one.
Let's see the lift when done though.
Took a look at the arms, unless you were to cut and reweld the steering arm then the pinion angle will actually be worse than it is in stock condition. I see that they are using the arms rotating the mounting points so that the caster is correct, it is not working like shims would on a rear solid axle. I am not sure if I am makeing sense in that but I do not see how it will fix the pinion angle at all. In fact if you look at the procudts on their site they also offer corrected caster swivel ***** to be used with the arms.
When I can afford it I'll be doing the heavy duty OME suspension with arb front end. That will give me enough lift with out all the other stuff required for a 3" lift. You may want to reconsider. Is one inch worth it for all that extra money and hassle?
Not trying to block a sale, but if you aren't prepared to do the modifications that may be necessary for the 3 inch lift I'd go with the 2 inch from RoverTym. This will allow you to put taller rubber under the vehicle which will give you, in effect, a 3 inch lift, not to mention what you will pick up from the inevitable stock spring sag. This is what you will see as a result.
When I installed the OME HD suspension on my 97 I got nearly 3" of lift over where I was sitting prior to the lift. My stock springs had settled nearly 1" so it made up for that plus almost 2". I forget, what do you plan to use the truck for?


