yeah, lifter tap means there is a problem, but you can go for years with it.

 

Stretch bolts do just that, they stretch when you touqre them.
So if they are 2" long in your hand and you tourqe them to spec they will be longer then 2" and then they want to contract back to their orginial 2" so they are always applying pressure.
These are a ONE TIME use type of bolt, if you try and use them again you will either snap them in half or they will never get tight.
These are common type of bolts for holding cylinder heads in place as well as rod caps, basically anything that is under extreme pressure/cyntrifical force.

 

well does anyone know if my motor has stretch bolts? 98 4.0. Also, the tap goes with the engine, once per rotation. I have to get home to see if the metal is ferrous. Sure wish i read something like this, I researched the crap out of ATF flushes on the site and seemed to find positive results. Not sure if I am going to fix or just sell anyway. I have had nothing but problems so far, and haven't even been able to utilize its abilities yet.

 

ATF flushes are a good part of regular maintenance if you keep the engine up to par. If it is really sludged up, it can expose an existing problem. I think your problem may have been there to begin with, it was just masked.

 

http://roverparts.com/Parts/ERR1772G.cfm
$80 and you have new ones.
I have no idea if they are stretch bolts or not.

 

well i just checked the metal flakes, they are non ferrous so thats good, that info along with the tap frequency lets us know that it has to be a rod/main bearing. the oil pan was full of sludge, so i know I had to have dislodged alot of crap. now my nex question is if it is a main bearing in the crank, thats a full dismantle to get to those? What are my odds that it is a rod bearing......be gentle.......

 

To replace the rod bearings just unbolts the rod caps and then remove the cap, repalce that bearing then push the piston up and replace that bearing.
Then put it back together.
Next piston.
You do not need to remove the crank and this can be done with the engine still in the truck.

 

no, what i am asking is are there other bearings on the crankshaft that have to be in the front and rear of the block, that could have gone bad, not just the rod bearings?

 

Must kindly disagree. That's the point I'm making. The flush very likely caused the problem by freeing debris to get into the bearing clearances. Bad news.

No engine will benefit from an ATF flush in any appreciable way. It's a placebo and as we're seeing from this thread, it has risks.

http://media.nbcbayarea.com/document...+Documents.pdf

Dave

 

Yes, the front and rear crankshaft bearings are roller bearings but are ferrous. In addition to the rod bearings, the main bearings which support the crankshaft in its journals are made of babbitt material, and cannot be replaced without removing the crankshaft, and by implication the engine itself. Spike is correct- you can replace the rod bearings without removing the engine and you might get lucky, but I would drive it a bit to see if it gets much worse and do an overhaul when the noise makes you cringe and before it blows.

Cheers,
Dave