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I think this guy figured out the tapping/ticking

Old Apr 19, 2011 | 08:58 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by coors
Mystery Solved!!

Anyone in the market for an '01 Disco w/ CDL, 144k on the clock, and a slight ticking problem? Cut you a good deal.
I was thinking the same thing and mine doesn't even have the ticking.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 10:07 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Spike555
I wonder is a couple of tack welds on the bottom of the liners to the block would stop this?
It might but the hole idea of the flanged liner is to seal the cylinder off ..even a crack behinde the liner would leak unless it's flanged...I am changing out the liners on mine also...Pinning is to much of a crap shoot to me...the rest of my truck is another crap shoot waiting to happen....
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 09:25 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Bundu
You can't weld aluminum and steel , or am I wrong?
You're correct. For all practical purposes, its not going to work.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 09:46 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by vandev
It might but the hole idea of the flanged liner is to seal the cylinder off ..even a crack behinde the liner would leak unless it's flanged...I am changing out the liners on mine also...Pinning is to much of a crap shoot to me...the rest of my truck is another crap shoot waiting to happen....
A flanged liner or any liner for that matter is not going to seal a cracked block, you need to get the crack fixed, or get another block. The idea of the flanged or top hat liner is that there is the flange to hold the liner in place no matter what happens. The flange is pressed between the block and head and cannot move, hence no more slipped liners. The top hat liner can be a loose fit liner for that matter and it will not slip.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 12:29 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Bundu
A flanged liner or any liner for that matter is not going to seal a cracked block, you need to get the crack fixed, or get another block.
It isn't going to fix it for real, but it's been proven to work with pressed in top hat liners. The reason for that is the typical failure mode of these bocks - the crack is very small and close to the top (right at the end of the head bolts).

I'd rather have an uncracked block, bur knowing the metallurgical and thickness issues near the inside cylinders, I'd rather have top hat liners. Does it fix the problem? Not really. Does it mask it so that you can keep on driving and suffer no ill effects at all? In some cases, yes it has.

Of course, if you have a gusher of a crack, it's just going to pur down into the bottom end of the motor. Nothing short of a new block or fixing the old one is going to change that.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 12:31 PM
  #26  
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OK gotcha.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 07:13 PM
  #27  
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So this is a crazy question. But can you pin the liners from under the engine block without removing the engine or block. Basically by dropping the oil pan. I just thought about this. That video is disturbing to see how easy those liners lift out. Not ticks, knocks or bangs so far on my 2003.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 08:58 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Spike555
I wonder is a couple of tack welds on the bottom of the liners to the block would stop this?
best idea yet.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 09:19 PM
  #29  
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Default Ticking gone

My ticking went away after replacing the timing cover gasket and crankshaft seal. Oil is Dino 10-40...no more ticking over the course of several months.

Dave
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 09:31 PM
  #30  
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My ticking went away after Turner Engineering heads installed.
 
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