Ideas, disconnects.
#1
Ideas, disconnects.
Fitting a set of JKS P/N 9300 quick disconnects to the rear swaybar. Would anyone have a suggestion on a pre-made part to connect the top eye to the swaybar? The fronts have a saddle loop that goes over the swaybar but those won't fit over the rear disconnect. Can't use the same style in the back because the diff gets in the way of removing the disconnect pin.
If not I'll just get one made up locally, looks like something that could be an off the shelf part for something random I haven't considered though.
If not I'll just get one made up locally, looks like something that could be an off the shelf part for something random I haven't considered though.
#3
RE: Ideas, disconnects.
Yeah, may be an option once I get the Bil 7100's on with stiff valving, but I'm more inclined to put on a stiffer one, and just disconnect it off-road. I do too much long distance highway driving with full loads to take any stiffness out of the suspension. Right now with RTE HD springs and N106/107 shocks I get bouncing mid-corner even on reasonably mild highway turns. I'm more inclined to actually fit stiffer swaybars and disconnect them when needed. Plus the disconnects are already on the way.
#5
RE: Ideas, disconnects.
Uh, if you have ACE and remove it you don't have ACE anymore. I've got the disconnects paid for anyway, I'll try both ways but it can't hurt to have a little more limited articulation on the highway anyway, especially once I get the 12" shocks on. I don't have ACE.
#6
#9
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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RE: Ideas, disconnects.
Uh, didn't know that you intended to remove ACE.I thought thisdiscussion was about removing the rear sway bar. Unless I'm completely in the ditch and ACE is present in the rear also?!?. If so, I just learned something new AGAIN. Thought it was only the front
I'll immediately check the RAVE.
I'll immediately check the RAVE.
#10
RE: Ideas, disconnects.
Not sure on that, don't have ACE. I'm not looking to remove the swaybars, what I actually want to do is stiffen them and put disconnects on both. Swaybars provide a very important function, they increase the stiffness of the suspension when only one wheel moves or when the body rolls but not when you go over bumps that move wheels on both ends. This means you can go with softer shocks and softer springs if you have a stiffer swaybar and still not wallow in corners.
For mine though I want a good stiff ride, and I want the swaybar to limit articulation on-road, but when I go slow off-road I want to have them disconnected then limit travel with hydraulic bump stops (jounce shocks) for compression and with top and bottom retention in the rear, and bottom retention and dislocation cone in the front.
I'm hoping to get things done in the next couple weeks and I'll post some pictures. I don't know if anyone around here has a ramp but I'll try to get my hands on one or a forklift to measure how well things work and make sure I'm not going to lose springs up front.
For mine though I want a good stiff ride, and I want the swaybar to limit articulation on-road, but when I go slow off-road I want to have them disconnected then limit travel with hydraulic bump stops (jounce shocks) for compression and with top and bottom retention in the rear, and bottom retention and dislocation cone in the front.
I'm hoping to get things done in the next couple weeks and I'll post some pictures. I don't know if anyone around here has a ramp but I'll try to get my hands on one or a forklift to measure how well things work and make sure I'm not going to lose springs up front.