Hello all,

I've thought that my 03' engine tick was coming from a collapsing lifter, but honestly its very hard to pin point the location on sound alone.

In an effort to attempt to make sure it is the lifter/lifters I was thinking about running straight 50 weight oil. My thought is if it's a lifter that is collapsing this may keep it from doing so in turn telling me for sure the lifter is shot.

I'm currently running 15-40W and I just want to make sure I don't do any damage by using such a heavy weight oil.

Your thoughts please??

 

Make an oil psi manual gauge test. Borrow gauge from parts store. Should be 50 PSI at 2000 RPM engine hot. Oil pump can crack, will still rotate, makes enough pressure to turn out light (7 PSI) , but not enough to protect engine. Pieces of pump make the tick. Actually, lower weight oil will get a higher pressure with busted pump but still not enough. This time of year you can run 5w40 Rotella.

Lifters are way down the tick list, and are usually cleaned up by running a good diesel rated oil which has more cleaning compounds in it.

Other tick sources (once oil PSI ruled out) - cracked flex plate, and SAI components.

 

And Heavy oil is not a fix for a tick, you will need to pull the top end off the engine and visually inspect the entire valve train for wear and measurements.
Might want to go to, A"MUST Read For Anyone About to Repair a Head Gaskets or a Valve Train Noise. - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
and read this write up on head gaskets and valve train noise, it will walk you thru all you need to do.

 

But please test oil PSI as a very cheap first step.

 

I agree, I never want to see someone tear into an engine for no good reason.
As for the oil pressure test, start your test with the engine stone cold as a cold start, check level at idle and 2000 RPM's then again when hot at idle an 2000 RPM's. Get back to us with those 4 sets of numbers.

 

Also, the liners really can move around and tick. It's been proven. People have replaced every moving part in the engine except the block and still had the tick upon reassembly. The classic symptoms being only ticks when hot and goes away as you rev up the engine. Just look up turbodave video where he put a stripped down block on a gas grill, heated it up to operating temps and was able to pull the liners out with a pair of gloves. Something to think about.

 

Pix of cracked oil pump, of all the ticks, this one destroys the engine slowly, hiding behind the "normal" condition of the dark oil warning light.

 

I should have mentioned the tick begins only after the engine warned up to normal operating temp. The tick is pretty nasty so it wouldn't surprise me if it turns out to be a liner. It's a very expensive noise to chase.

 

Cold start 55
2000 cold 50
Idle hot 12
2000 hot 40-45
2000 hot 45

 

IMHO, your pump is producing good pressure and the slightly low (maybe 5 pounds) could be more wear on the various bearings, or some variation in oil viscosity. So save the front cover, and pump project for the moment. Can you listen to the valve cover and other spots with a long screw driver or stick pressed against your ear? This may help locate which side, etc. And there are SAI parts and flex plate cracks that can make the tick. Plus sleeves. May be able to hear them by pressing that stick/screw driver at various spots.