Front cover gasket and water pump gasket is down there.
Or check all your hose connections, coolant can blow everywhere from the fan and the place you see it is not necessarily the leak point. Wash off then engine and then let the engine run without driving it and see if you can spot the leak.

 

Sort of nervous if I ever have to replace the head gaskets. I dont have the money to have someone do the heads and sort of nervous to do them myself. I have all the time in the world but never done nothing this intense. Any guides or words of wisdom if i try? lol

 

Skim through this thread...it's a very "candid" version of someone going through the HG process and some of the problems you might run into.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...sket+adventure

It's long, but very entertaining..

 

That is an extreme case with some drinking and wrenching snafus. I did my head gaskets without ever doing engine work and it took me about 30 hours total of work. I think it took about 4 or 5 days all together with waiting for the machinist. The main problems I had was a rounded off head bolt and a couple broken hoses I had to order. Plus running out for tools I needed.

 

It's not such a big deal to do, get RAVE and print out the pages as you go along, the steps are easy and ask questions if you get stuck or are puzzled by something. You do not need special tools, basic tools will get you a long way and the few special tools you may need can be found at Advance/Autozone at a fair price, or even loaned for free.
The parts are actually not expensive in my opinion - provided you don't go to a dealer.
Heck there are even ladies that do their own head gaskets, it's not that difficult.

 

Well here goes nothing. In two weeks I am going to attempt this work load. I just told myself, its something that needs to be done or bye bye Rover. lol. In two weeks my friend will be back from a road bike race and is going to set in and watch, just someone to help if need be. I am going to use card board to list every piece out as i take it off. lol.

When you say basic tools you mean? What all tools do I need to have?

 

But lets say if it is a hose leaking or something else. Do I still need to replace the head gaskets or wait till they actually go bad or they leak? Because I would hate to tare this damn thing apart for nothing just yet. I bought this vehicle used and it had 130,000 on it when it was bought. Could it have already been done possibly? Idk but what do you guys think?

 

I would not replace the head gaskets just for the sake of replacing them. Do you have oil leaks or coolant leaks from the head gaskets? Are the head gaskets blown? I would only replace them if they are leaking or blown, until then I would enjoy the vehicle. You can have tests done to determine if you have a head gasket leak. It may be worth the hour or 2 of labor it will cost you to have the tests done at an indy shop, just so you know for sure.
Tools you need are a socket set, my preference is a 1/2" set, in both metric and SAE. For the head gasket job you need a torque wrench (can be loaned) and a breaker bar with a strong piece of 4' pipe to use as a cheater bar. You need a 5/8" shallow wall impact socket for the head bolts, anything else will wreck the bolt heads when you crack them free. You need an impact wobble extension to get around to some of the head bolts - impact tools are made much tougher and are safer to use the head bolts.
I also picked up a 1/4" socket set to get to some smaller nuts and bolts, the rocker covers have ****ly little 12 point bolts that require a real small socket.
If you want to remove the fan you will need a 36mm fan wrench and something to lock the fan pulley, Advanced sell this and it makes the job simple.
Other than that you need time, space, a dose of common sense and patience. I used zip lock bags to store and tag everything that came off, that way you know where every bolts goes when you reassemble.

 

I just wanted to let everyone know what my issue is and why I am asking about the Idle Air Control Valve.

My car starts fine without any issues but when I leave my house and get 3 miles down the road and at my first stop, the car will stall. You dont even really hear it stall, its really slow and nothing big. I just put the car in park and start it back up with no issue. It always happens at the same spot everytime and no where else. Now there has been a couple times it has not shut off but most of the time it does. I have no problem starting it back up. Other then that the vehicle is running ok except for the really slow coolant leak and rough idle I have. I think the rough idle is a mix of bad spark plugs and a dirty idle air control valve. What do you guys think and what is the best thing or spray to clean idle air control valves with?

 

Start with the easy stuff:
Drive a different route - just kidding.
Clean the throttle body and idle control valve with carb cleaner. Cost: a couple of $ for a can of spray carb cleaner. Do this first and then drive it and see if anything improves.
Replace plugs if you know/think they are bad.

Have you replaced the spark plug wires? Bad wires = bad spark.