She sat in deep water for 5 days. Soaked air filter and catch tube under the MAS was full of water. I had to power out of where I was stuck not knowing any of this until I got on a road and kept stalling. I took the air filter out, removed the top housing, unplugged the MAS, and was able to limp home as long as I kept the RPM's over 2k.

Now that's I've cleaned everything out, air intake, new filter, throttle body, etc. It starts like it always did, and runs at idle for hours, but the second I step on the gas she stalls. Any ideas?

 

Error codes P0102 and the dreaded P1884

I think I'll start with the CPS.

 

loose hose between MAF and intake perhaps. Unmetered air, CPU does not know what to do.

 

Buzz! I've been wondering where you went! All the connections are good. It'll cold start and run at idle fine with the MAF unplugged, after about 30 minutes, I can put it in reverse and roll backwards, then drive and roll forwards. If I try and give it any gas she stalls then will not re-start hot. If I plug the MAF in it'll start cold but but then dies after after a couple minutes. With MAF unplugged I can run the A/cC or Heat at full while at idle. With the MAF plugged in it just dies when I try and turn on either. I order a new MAF unit which I should get tomorrow. You think if that doesn't fix it try the CPU before the CPS? Remember, it was in deep water for 5 day and I think the CPS was submerged the entire time. Thanks!

 

Replaced the MAF - FIXED. Yee Haw.

 

This is so strange. It ran great for about a day. It still runs and idles but if I turn on the A/C is stalls. I can run the A/C while driving but have to turn it off before I come to a stop. My Ultra Gauge is showing the I'm averaging 1.5 - 2.8 MPG?? I guess the CPU is next?

 

A/C is shorting and drawing too much current?
Unplug the compressor connection then try the A/C button again and see if it still stalls?

I would just keep driving it to dry it all out.

My feeling is you got off so lucky!

Oil got changed?
There is a few air tubes up at the cylinder head height.
For the diffs I think?
I hope those did not take in water.

and your electronics are still working.
You got off so so lucky.

Congratulations.

 

Once I got it home I changed the oil, filter, air filter, took the air intake hose out and let all the water drain out of the catch tube under the MAF, lots of water.. Changed both diff fluids, xfer case fluid, and tranny fluid. It runs great as long as I don't come to a stop with the ac on, then it stalls, but I can turn it off and it'll hold idle. I'm going to replace the CPS just because I bought a new one, but something seems to be adding a lot of drag on the system, even with the ac off the best I can get the ultra gauge to read is 2.25 mpg instant. Is there any way to lube the crank shaft pully etc? I'm not sure what's binding it up yet but I'll try in plugging the ac compressor, but it works fine while traveling down the road.

Also, i read somewhere that disco mike said Bosh only for MAF REPLACEMENT. I bought a new one from Napa not sure the brand and it worked for about a day..

 

if the engine dies when the compressor clutch is locked up you have a problem with the compressor or pressures.
there is nothing in the compressor to short out, the only electric part is the clutch its lockup or not.
I seen over charged systems act that way; running fine until the clutch is engaged that it drags the whole engine down or a compressor that is on its way out will do the same.

 

I unplugged the compressor and same results. It starts fine and idles, I can drive around all day, as long as it's in gear I can come to a stop at a red light, but the minute I put it in park it stalls. codes P0103 and P1884