My daughter's '01 D2 just started doing a bunch of odd stuff. Front wipers/washers, rear wiper/washer, seat heaters, cigar lighter all inoperative. Checked fuses, all good. Appears to be a bad ignition switch since multiple circuits dead. Also the radio works independent of the ignition key now. Can turn it on and off with key out of ignition. Sound like I'm on the right track?

Looking at ignition switch prices, it looks like OEM would set me back about $600ish (not happening). Used ones are out there on EBay in the $200 range. I did see one for only $75 without a key. how tough would it be to remove the lock cylinder without a key and install our current cylinder in the replacement switch?

Thoughts?

 

For all the systems that have stopped working, see if you have power on the fuses for each of them. If you do, what is the voltage reading? If there is a problem with the ignition switch, sometimes wiggling the key will temporarily make it work. It won't fix it, but will help you narrow down the problem.
Sometimes bad grounds can cause problems like this. Check all around the firewall, engine, frame and battery for loose connections.

 

Spent some quality time with the RAVE manual schematics over lunch and found some common denominators as I tracked each non-working circuit. Turns out they all get battery power through fusible link #8 up to the ignition switch and then through Fuse # 26 (pass fuse box) and the Aux relay (R7 in the engine compartment) before branching out to each individual circuit and their respective independent fuses.


Since Link 8 is also used on some other known working circuits, I can rule it out now. Tonight I'll test the voltage on Fuse 26 and if no voltage check to see if it's getting through the ignition switch (brown input wire, green/white wire output). If correct voltage at Fuse 26, move on to the Aux relay. It appears to be all about the Aux circuit at this point. Will update with results.

 

Sounds like you're on the right track! Hopefully it's something simple, like a relay.

 

If diagnosis aims to the key/ignition switch; keep in mind the key operates two assemblies : The steering lock and the electrical switch.
If there is no problem with key insertion/turn/removal/locking ; you can replace only the electrical switch section.
I did dismantle the whole locking section yesterday and after modified, put back together. The electrical switch end portion detaches with 2 screws.

 

That turned out way too easy! Voltage was present on the fuse (# 26) so swapped the aux relay with another and the dead circuits are alive again. Hoping the local auto parts stores carry this relay. Thanks for the info guys.

 

That's awesome! I'm glad it turned out to be something simple.

 

All is well once again, and only out about $17 for the relay through a NAPA parts store. Case closed!

 

Can't beat that!

 

Thanks for posting the resolution! This is a great example of how helpful it can be to spend some time with the FREE service manuals and technical information that are available before blindly swapping parts.

Great job.