I post this after reading through the threads.

2001 Disco SE7
Immobilized I disconnect the battery when not in use; as it is a every once in a while drive.

-I have tried to reset by using the key and the fob.

-Disconnecting the battery, turning the key to the number two position and reconnecting the battery

- Entering an EKA code (wont accept input)

Any ideas or does anyone know of a shop in central jersey that has a computer that will deactivate it?

 

It could take some time for the IDM to start talking to the BCU again after the battery has been hooked back up. How long did you wait? I'd give it 15 minutes or so with everything ready before trying to crank it.

Roll the window down so you don't get locked out, close the doors (and hood), and come back after watching your favorite show on netflix. Unlock the door with the key and see if it will start.

Also before doing all of that, does it not crank, or does it crank and not start?

 

I have been waiting for two weeks with the battery reconnected. No crank.
Good news though its alive.
Your idm comment gave me an idea; having a couple extra fuse boxes/idm I switched it out. That didn't work put the old one back in and it fired up. Some times dumb luck wins.

 

Hi LSwain -
glad to hear that your tuck is alive and well!

I am pretty new to the Land Rover scene and am having some similar troubles with my 04 SE7.
Can you tell me what he IDM and EKA are?

 

The EKA is Emergency Key Access.

IDM is the Intelligent driver module.

From the workshop manual

"IDM
The IDM is integrated into the passenger compartment fuse box, which is mounted behind the fascia below the
steering column. There are no harnesses between the fuse box and the IDM. The IDM performs the power switching
operations for several of the vehicle's electrical systems. The IDM communicates with the BCU and the instrument pack via a serial interface. If the BCU or the IDM is replaced,
the communications link between the two units has to be re-established. This can be done either by switching on the
ignition and leaving it on for five minutes, or by using TestBook. The vehicle immobilisation will remain active until the
communications link between the BCU and IDM has been re-established.

The BCU also communicates with several other electronically controlled systems such as the EAT ECU and SLABS
ECU and also has a datalink between the Intelligent Driver Module (IDM) and the instrument pack. The datalink is a
low speed bus capable of transmitting and receiving messages at a data rate of 10,400 bits per second. Additional
inputs and outputs to peripheral devices are included which are necessary for determining vehicle status for particular
logical operations e.g. crank, ignition key inserted, fuel flap enable etc."

Hope this helps. Download the RAVE if you haven't and have a multi-meter handy. Your going to need it.

 

Hello all,
I hope this thread is still alive. I jump started my 2000 LR Disco 2, heard something like a spark/pop sound when I cranked the engine. It did not start. I got the following fault codes: P1590, P0332, P1668, P1562. P1662 got my attention. Here is what I've observed:

• Using FOB locking the car I see fast red LED flashing (the green left & right turn signals indicators flash once). After 10 sec red LED starts slow flashing.
• When locking the car the horn goes off for a second (it's been doing it for a while though before this problem popped up)
• When I connect battery charger I hear a ticking sound from underneath the car toward the back. If I disconnect the charger I do not hear the ticking sound.

Reading this thread seems to me in Immobilized mode the car does not even crank, my car does crank but it wont start. Any suggestion would be much appreciated.

 

Did you check if the G-switch has tripped?
I think the short horn beep might only be telling you it thinks a door is open, I doubt that it’s related to the no start issue.
Presumeably when you tried to jump start the leads were connected correctly?

 

I just checked mine. The red flashing lights do exactly as yours (flash rapidly for some seconds after locking with the fob, then slowly) so I think that’s normal.

 

Hi, folks:

Going to post this question here because I'm not sure this topic needs a new thread, but hopefully someone here can help. My D2 (2004 4.6L, 141k miles) is currently stuck in a grocery store parking lot. I would say it's technically immobilized, because it won't move, but it DOES start. I got a pending P1668 code on the UG once, but cleared it and it never came back and there are no other codes popping up. Here are the symptoms:

• Driving along as normal, pull into the parking lot and notice the directional isn't making the "clicking" sound, but the green directional dash light works (and directional lights work). Thought that was odd, but figured the clicker mechanism failed. The fob also will not lock any of the doors when I get out, and the central locking button on the dash also does not lock the doors.
• Come back out and start the vehicle. It does start without any issue, but won't go into gear, and there's a definite "clicking" sound behind the fuse panel when my foot is on the brake, like a relay clicking. The directionals and brake lights all work (and headlights, fog lights, interior lights, etc.), but the trailer hookup light flashes along with the right directional for some strange reason. I don't have trailer wiring, for whatever that's worth.
• Here's the strange part: The LED for the immobilizer does NOT flash at all when locking the vehicle with the key in the door, or when the fob button is pressed, BUT the horn and interior lights do function when the fob is pressed – the doors don't actually lock. For example, the horn sounds when the fob button is pressed with the door open, like it's supposed to, but the doors don't lock.
• Both fobs light up and will activate the horn and interior lights, but neither will lock the doors.
• After some searching, I unhooked the new battery, turned the key to Position 2, waited 10 minutes, then started the vehicle again. No red immobilizer LED, and the same symptoms occurred.

So, because the fob seems to be communicating with the vehicle in some way, I'm not sure if this is a BCM, IDM, or some other issue? The fact that my D2 starts at all also seems odd, given everything I've read, because most immobilizer issues seem to result in vehicles not starting at all. I goofed around with it in the parking lot for a couple hours and could not get anywhere. The battery was pretty corroded, so I even went so far as to buy a cheap new battery and threw that in (with no luck). I'm going to page @Extinct and @zuke to the courtesy phone.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance! - BL

 

The "won't go into gear" sounds like the transmission shifter interlock is not unlocking.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...urgent-100757/

This may help you get it home.