so I was looking thru some of the sticky write-ups, and the induction cleaning. Whatever that part is with the little black cap, that the vac hose sucks the sea foam into... my D2 has tubing attached to it leading somewhere else





anyone know what the difference is?


next, I'm getting ready to replace the radiator/tstat/hoses. I just ordered the grey 180 deg soft spring tstat. probably get the radiator and hoses from lucky 8...I have an ultra gauge I just hooked up, and looks like I'm running about 206-208 while steady driving, about 212 or so sitting. would like to keep it under 200.

Gonna install an oil P gauge. 102k miles, no oil P issues yet, maybe I got a good block? or engine was replaced before i got it with 16,000 miles? I'll try to find the previous complete service history.

If I remove the timing case and it doesn't look worn, and the gears look good... should I at least replace the oil pump gears? or add new timing case as well? new timing chain too?

also getting ready to do Disco mike's high mileage servicing.

so far, the 86k or so miles I have put on it, it has run very well, no bad ticking or any bad noises like that. just the crank position sensor fail was about it with the engine, plus dealer replaced the head gasket at no cost to me. though I still have a leak or two to diagnose, and it does lose some coolant (the reservoir nearly empty after 3 months and 3500 miles)... need to figure out that as well. compression test? chemical test of oil? coolant? not overheating at the moment

all in all, I've been very happy with my 03 D2


thanks

scott

 

I have the same question. I traced that tube and it is part of the SAI. I disconnected in hopes of trying to do the "sticky" SAI filter clean, but that didn't work out so well. Once I got the tube and SAI motor out I couldn't figure out how to get to the filter. Truck is now throwing P1412 and P1415... I think it might be related.

I haven't done the seafoam yet, but I was planning on using that same nipple.

 

Based on your picture, you have a leak at your heat hose, need to replace the totally warn out factory plug wires and if you are replacing the t/stat which is a great idea, consider also replacing the coolant pressure cap cause Dexcool will eat it up then switch to one of the better green coolants, maybe adding a bottle of Water Wetter to the system for a cooler engine.

 

Yes thank you Mike... I plan to replace the cap, add water wetter or BG supercool, and use Peak Green coolant... no Dex.

As far as the leaky heat hose, that's the one on the top left with the metal clamp? Replace the plug that the clamp is holding? or the entire hose? or are you also talking about the wires in the corrugated plastic tubing that kind of form a "y"

scott

 

replace the heater hoses and the ignition wires

 

So back to the original question. For Seafoam treatment with this extra tube connected, can we still disconnect the tube and run the Seafoam through there? Or do we need to use a different inlet?

Also, from the write up, I gather we use the whole can of Seafoam and regulate it with the pliers so the whole can sucks in, in about 60 seconds?

Thanks.

 

You can remove the rubber nipple and go thru there are follow the directions on the new style SeaFoam cans and use their hose thru the t/body.