The infamous Heater Core
nope all LR heater cores are a PIA, my RRC took 10 hours.
when you start with a right hand drive car and convert everything to left hand,
heater boxes and AC parts just get stuffed where they will fit.
when you start with a right hand drive car and convert everything to left hand,
heater boxes and AC parts just get stuffed where they will fit.
Last edited by drowssap; Nov 1, 2013 at 08:58 AM.
So I got the heater core out...not too bad actually, 3 hours and that was because I stopped to take a drink after every bolt/screw was removed. I could talk someone thru it now
Core was clogged with rust and sediment, took a full day to clean and power flush and now it actually flows. Took the core to a machine shop and had the o-ring fittings welded on and now I use 5/8" heater hose direct from the hard lines in the engine bay to the fittings on the core, gasket in firewall re-used of course. The book does not explain how to remove the OEM aluminum lines from the mounting bracket on the firewall, thus a grinder worked just fine. All back in, no leaks, and I even found enough change in the center console to pay for several beers
. Thanks!
Core was clogged with rust and sediment, took a full day to clean and power flush and now it actually flows. Took the core to a machine shop and had the o-ring fittings welded on and now I use 5/8" heater hose direct from the hard lines in the engine bay to the fittings on the core, gasket in firewall re-used of course. The book does not explain how to remove the OEM aluminum lines from the mounting bracket on the firewall, thus a grinder worked just fine. All back in, no leaks, and I even found enough change in the center console to pay for several beers
. Thanks!
Like Mike says, before you start ripping the dash out ensure the cooling system has been bled through properly and you haven't got an air lock in the cooling or heating system. Set all your heater controls to the hottest setting and go for a drive first to ensure all the water valves are open and allow to cool down and go through a thorough bleed of the system. There are many threads on coolant bleeding on here and other forums. It's simple to do but should be done properly.
Just for info I latterly found this on an Australian forum although it's a D1 it's virtually the same routine.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...orkshop-5.html
Hope it helps.
Just for info I latterly found this on an Australian forum although it's a D1 it's virtually the same routine.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...orkshop-5.html
Hope it helps.
Last edited by OffroadFrance; Nov 10, 2013 at 04:26 PM.
does anyone have any advice on how to line up the clamps from the heater core to the tubes? I've been trying for over 3 hours and am getting no where fast.is there another way to clamp this ? it seems like a really hokey way of doing things.
So I got the heater core out...not too bad actually, 3 hours and that was because I stopped to take a drink after every bolt/screw was removed. I could talk someone thru it now
Core was clogged with rust and sediment, took a full day to clean and power flush and now it actually flows. Took the core to a machine shop and had the o-ring fittings welded on and now I use 5/8" heater hose direct from the hard lines in the engine bay to the fittings on the core, gasket in firewall re-used of course. The book does not explain how to remove the OEM aluminum lines from the mounting bracket on the firewall, thus a grinder worked just fine. All back in, no leaks, and I even found enough change in the center console to pay for several beers
. Thanks!
Core was clogged with rust and sediment, took a full day to clean and power flush and now it actually flows. Took the core to a machine shop and had the o-ring fittings welded on and now I use 5/8" heater hose direct from the hard lines in the engine bay to the fittings on the core, gasket in firewall re-used of course. The book does not explain how to remove the OEM aluminum lines from the mounting bracket on the firewall, thus a grinder worked just fine. All back in, no leaks, and I even found enough change in the center console to pay for several beers
. Thanks!
June 2020,
Heater core issue, of course it leaks. at the seals. at looking through the various forums ...tig weld the pipes right to the core. With the pipes all ready cut and using rubber hoses between the core and the fire wall this should work. hope!
Heater core issue, of course it leaks. at the seals. at looking through the various forums ...tig weld the pipes right to the core. With the pipes all ready cut and using rubber hoses between the core and the fire wall this should work. hope!
Hello Mike,
While doing some research I ran into this old post. Are you saying that a not properly bled system , can cause the heater core to leak? I have coolant all over my passenger floor. This happened right after I placed 2" spacers throughout. I had to remove the shock towers, and on the passenger side i had to move the coolant reservoir out of the way, but I did not disconnect it, but when I replaced everything back, I noticed the leak, and fumes from coolant inside the truck. I am not sure if this is pure coincidence that my heater core went bad, or that air got trapped in the system, there fore the leak. I hope you can answer me from this old post.
Thanks,
Mario
While doing some research I ran into this old post. Are you saying that a not properly bled system , can cause the heater core to leak? I have coolant all over my passenger floor. This happened right after I placed 2" spacers throughout. I had to remove the shock towers, and on the passenger side i had to move the coolant reservoir out of the way, but I did not disconnect it, but when I replaced everything back, I noticed the leak, and fumes from coolant inside the truck. I am not sure if this is pure coincidence that my heater core went bad, or that air got trapped in the system, there fore the leak. I hope you can answer me from this old post.
Thanks,
Mario


